alternator replacement ?

my motorola 35amp alternator is just below nominal. i would like to swap it out with a salvage yard alternator but at 65 amps instead.

this is for a 225 oddfire '69. any suggestions as to a donor model that would have the same mounting pattern so i don't have to adapt it?

the current motorola i have has an external solidstate regulator but i don't have any problems with replacing it with a single wire internal reg model.

thanks for any and all.

 

Steve: Don't have any specific recomendations other than any mid 60's chevy V8 will have a 10SI 63-65 amp unit. Might be better to get one from NAPA.

I'd stick with the 3 wire--easier to switch over from what you have and 3 wires usually have better sensing abilities.

 

Read through this page, and it should give you the info you need.....

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml

 

thanks, jim. i will probably do that instead. unless the $ is way high. i think i can get one from the local auto electric repair shop for about $70 which is more than the salvage yard. but... there is something to be said about a warranty in the winter months here.

(in case you havasu folk don't understand the concept of "really friggin cold". my parent moved from iowa about 12 years ago to tucson and they seemed to forget.... unless.... they're just rubbing it in... hmmmm.
our family has a warped sense of humour sometimes:twisted: )

 

thad, great page! thanks. it helps a lot!

 

Steve when mine went out on mine I went to the local Napa with my old one (knew I'd need a core) replaced it with a 104 amp model. The guy there said it was a standard chevy item.

 

Steve: It's got down to 29* here--had to wear a long sleve shirt.R)

I still have the Motorloa 35A on mine. One of these days I'll change over to a 63A. BTW, only question I have is what do you do with the external reg. wireing? Just take it out, or do some of the wires to the alt. have to be redone to complete the ciircuit? In other words, does the ext. reg. complete any wireing circuit?

Let me know what you find out.

Hear's an interesting discussion of 1 wire vs. 3 wire. http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

 

View attachment 5551

Here's a diagram from a Haynes S-10 manual. I used it to wire my 3 wire last week.
The wire on the left attaches to the post on the rear of the alternator and is connected to the battery.
The middle wire is the larger of the two blade terminals on the side of the alternator(this is the terminal on the left if viewing the alternator with the pulley facing you). The wire on the far right is the smaller of the two blade terminals.
I ran these wires from the blade terminals to the indicator bulb under the dash, and then to my ignition wire where it attaches to the ballast resistor just before the ignition coil. I'll provide pictures of the actual wiring if you'd like.
I'm very pleased with how my alternator functions now. I'm hope this will help you.

 

thanks all. these posts help a lot!

 

That's a great article!

Now, isn't it better to get a brand new, modern alternator? If so, which one would be appropriate for the F134 engine?

 

Yes. I replaced the old generator with an alternator and find it's much better.

I used a GM style 12SI I think. Standard 3-wire that was rated about 80 amps or so. Got the mounting bracket kit from Willys Works in Arizona. Last phone number I had for them was (520) 888-5082 which is probably still OK.

Stan

 

The bracket can be fabbed up pretty easily.....




Yes sports fans, that's aluminum. That's what I had at the time. Worked out very well despite the booger welds. You'll also need one of the long slotted "arch" type arms. I attached it to one of the water pump bolts, using a piece of tubing as a spacer to help with rigidity. It's a tight fit, once it's in there, and there's only about one tiny place where I can see if my timing's is on with the timing light, but it works.

 

Thanks, I need to bring the Jeep home ASAP. It's been sitting outside at my cousin's for quite a few months. He's getting it ready for the five plus hr trip home. He did change the brushes on the generator and the ignition points. Now it's a matter of rebuilding the carburetor and getting two used rims...

 

Being new to this site I am still trying to navigate through it so thanks for your patience. I would like to also thank you for your quick reply.

 

:iagree:

 

changing from the motorola to a 10si is probably the best thing I ever did (still havn't gone to electronic ignition tho). You can get a 10SI Delco Remy alternator that is guarenteed for life for less then 40 bucks from autozone or advance auto. Make sure you throw in the extra 8 bucks to get one guarenteed for life. (they also have a $30 - 1 year model) It will be the only alternator you'll have to buy. It will swap right in. I think I used either a 71 or 76 pontiac firebird with a 6 cylinder engine at autozone. Set it up with the three wire system, you will have no problems. at less then 40 bucks a pop, buy two - they'll last two lifetimes. My 225 and 258 are both running that alternator. when I put it in the 258, I had to take a bracket that mounts on the engine block and re drill it to move it back an inch or so. The bottom mount (non adjustment mount) was a little thicker on the new alternator. Ran it without that bracket for months without a problem, but it does cutdown on vibration. Lastly, save the motorola alternator to make a portable welder, since it already dosn't have a regulator.

The 65 amps is more then enough for anything CJ related in my opinion. Run's my winch fine, tho I never have to use itR)