Won't Run Over 2000 Rpm

I know there are a thousand tidbits of advice, and a handful of comedy moments in this thread, but I had a stalling condition in my F134 before I did the dauntless swap.

First thing I did was replace the point with pertronix. It was easy and it worked fine, but didn’t fix the problem. I also replaced plugs and wires with proper gap…

Second, I got a fuel pressure regulator. If I recall correctly, the solex likes between 3-5 PSI while the stock fuel pump puts out something much higher for the original carb (maybe 12 PSI? - someone with more experience could tell you for sure). This helped with my stalling condition, but didn’t fix it.

Third, I realized that the distributor was far too advanced. I think the previous owner pushed it ahead to try and prevent the stall condition, but it didn’t work long term. I backed it off and things started working much better.

Fourth, I rerouted the fuel line to make sure it wasn’t near the exhaust manifold (which it was). I just wanted to make sure I could rule out vapor lock.

I think the moral is, start with the easy stuff first. I think you already mentioned confirming the timing and plug gap. Maybe fuel pressure is next before moving in another direction?

 

Check the cam timing also. I had an engine once that wouldn't turn over 2 grand and found the cam timing off by 3 teeth. A PO had set it up wrong.

 

yeah I've "heard" of that....

 

Absolutely not. The YF carb needs about 2.5 psi. Check your FSM.

 

You’re right, solex is still about half of the original though. My bad. Knew it needed significantly less. I’ll keep my mouth shut now.

 

Don't.. How would we know that it isnt 12 PSI to the YF if you didnt make that error. Now even I know and haven't run one of them in 25 years..

 

Me too. Would do no more than idle, but there was a mouth-watering aroma of roasted nuts.

 

I bought a Norton years ago that had both mufflers packed with dog kibbles, from the big bag next to where the bike was stored in the garage. After vacuuming out what I could, I finally got the bike started. It was like a machine gun shooting out the rest of the kibbles when the engine was finally able to rev with the throttle. The smell was pretty unappetizing too.
-Donny

 

Plugged exhaust will cause very low vacuum readings.

 

One of the most useful and incredibly inexpensive tools for diagnosis. Always puzzled why folks don't use it more.

 

Just my opinion, but my opinion is every instrument panel should include a vacuum gauge. Incredibly informative. And fun to watch while driving.

 

It will tell you where you are wasting fuel for sure!

 

My brother's BMW 2002 had a linear vacuum gauge just below the speedo. No numbers, but the extremes were labeled "Power" and "Economy".

 

I had a Land Rover disco that was having power issues and I ran a vac line into the cab and put my diag gauge where I could see. I also had my fuel injection gauge on the windshield under the wiper.

 

We need some pictures of the linkages on the bottom of the carburetor.