F 134

So I thought I'd try to straighten my original Rocker Cover stud. Nope. I cracked it



The MMO has been soaking inside the inlet passages and the combustion chamber for a week. I tried a socket with a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Nope.

And I easily got the bell housing off (all new fasteners!) and tried to turn the flywheel with my brother's tool. Nope. I broke his tool.



The tool is only made for indexing a freely turning flywheel. I think. A few packs with a hammer made the tool good as new.

Then I got a short I-beam and located it close to the flywheel as a pivot point, engaged a flywheel tooth with a long pry bar, and tried to turn it. Nope. It lifted the engine off the pallet despite two ratcheting tie downs.



I guess I should wait (MMO soak) another week!!

Would it make sense to pull the distributor and oil pump to reduce the drag on the crankshaft? It can't be much I imagine.[/QUOTE]

 

Those look like exhaust manifold studs to me. Others will confirm or deny.

 

I have heard that ATF and I believe diesel fuel down the spark plug holes helps. Use an air nozzle and blow it around to get it
to the rings. If the head hasn't been taken off, an air adapter to spark plug hole may work with compressed air to a cylinder with
closed valves to get it to turn. Worked for me.

 

I should try it in one of those holes. I think they had bolts in them when I got the green engine.

 

Oh, duh, that is a great suggestion. I've got a good sized compressor and large tank right here!!

Will need to make, build or buy an air nozzle with spark plug sized threads!!

I've seen 5-6 different liquids suggested for dissolving the rust. I started with the MMO, well, because it's oil, and I thought I might have a prayer of starting it. I'll hang in there another week with the MMO and maybe have it turning by Christmas! If not, on to fluid 'B'.

 

Ok, thanks. I'll pull them tomorrow...if I can get into the garage.

 

Marvel Mystery Oil usually works pretty well, but I’ve also used ATF mixed 50/50 with acetone. The acetone thins it to penetrate, then a day later, the acetone has evaporated away. The ATF still penetrates pretty well.
On one particular engine, it was this ATF mix that it finally started moving the flywheel. Maybe a couple weeks of MMO prior had some effect too.
The best way to break an engine loose is with it still in the vehicle, soak the cylinders, then start rocking the vehicle in second or third gear. The spring center of the clutch helps with absorbing the shock, while allowing some momentum to get things moving.
-Donny

 

Try unbolting the clutch from the flywheel, then get a 4’-5’ piece of angle iron. Drill two holes at one end of the angle
iron that match two opposite flywheel holes (use the pressure plate as a template for proper spacing), bolt the angle to the flywheel, then start trying to turn the engine, provided its strapped down well.
-Donny

 

Since this engine isn't in the car, I'll likely try this next.

 

Can I rock the rocker arms without damaging them? I'd like to see if the valves will move.

Can I do something similar with the exhaust valves?

How much do they move?

Thanks.

 

With the valve cover off, you can push the top of the rocker (over the valve stem) with a hammer handle or wood block, or even push on the edge of the valve keeper. They don’t have a tremendous amount of tension. Some valves will already be open due to the cam positions.
The exhaust valves also can be levered up with some wood blocks and a screwdriver as a lever. Just don’t force anything!
If the valves even move an 1/8” off their seats, and snap back, they are fine.
-Donny

 

Ok, I was able to move 3 inlet valves and 3 exhaust valves easily with the tip of a screwdriver. The other two were in compression, inlet on #1, and exhaust in #2.

 

I got a chance to try the new stud in one of the exhaust manifold holes. Nada. Exhaust threads are bigger diameter.

 

I pulled the distributor and oil pump this afternoon. Both turned freely, were well lubricated, and showed absolutely no signs of rust.

 

Once you’ve gone this far, might as well pull the rod caps off and unbolt the mains, then pull the crank. If you take it this far, be sure to squeeze some fuel line pieces over the rod bolts to protect the crank journals. This assumes you have also pulled the head. Keep all the bearings and caps on order so they can be reused if they are in near perfect condition.
Then you can work on each piston individually with a solid wood block to get it free.
At least you will know what you have.
-Donny

 

Yep, supposed to be. And with all the fresh new hardware and ease of disassembly, it "feels" reassembled.
I thought we'd try the compressed air before further disassembly... Can't hurt, can it?

 

Yep. If it doesn't turn with air and an angle bolted to the flywheel, after one more week of MMO soaking, then further disassembly of bearings, then removing the crank and head, and wacking pistons is the only place to go it seems.

However, it is kind of fun to see if I can get it turning without complete disassembly. It feels like me vs. the old engine... I'm only slightly older... probably.

 

If the piston is 3-1/8 " dia, that's (Pi r^2) or 7.7sqin. With125 psi from my air compressor... that's about 1000 lb driving down on that stuck piston. If normal combustion produces, say, 300 psi in the cylinder at light loads, could I get over twice my air compressor's force (about a ton) with combustion.

I wonder, has anyone here ever tried spritzing a dose of gasoline into a stuck piston's (both-valves-closed) compression chamber, quickly installed its spark plug, and fired the plug?

Would it have enough air (O2) without a compression stroke... Probably not.

The cylinder might not be past TDC but would it hurt it to be forced one stroke in the wrong direction?

Belay my last, I talked myself out of trying combustion.

 

Interested, to know where that number comes from?