Swapping Engine Questions

Regarding the oil filter I would personally go with... whichever you like.
They both filter the same since both are bypass and you can only bypass soo much oil. The canister is neat looking and cartridges are available on the shelf here at O'Reilly and tractor supply. The spin on is disposable but I'm not familiar with it's availability.

 

Not so sure it became standard. I got the original sales paperwork and the larger clutch was an option. Wanna say $40 in Dec of 64. If I could find a 9 1/4" from a decent aftermarket brand I'd go with it but looks like the 8.5 it is and I may actually use the one on the "spare" motor as it appears to have been replaced when the previous owner had this motor rebuilt then realized it was running rich and he needed a 4.3

 

Yeah, when an engine is running rich it is time to do a conversion

 

Here is when the 9-1:4 first became an option…
A couple years later it became standard.
When it first became an option sll Jeeps had flywheels with both clutch mounting patterns

Change in 9-1/4" Clutch Option as Used on Four Cylinder Engines
Bulletin No. 509; March 17, 1961

• Page 1 -- New pressure plate for optional 9-1/4" clutch starting with engine no. 4J 284064.

 

Pcv valve

 

Good picture then of one properly set up. Always seems to be a lot of confusion about the PCV system, partially because there were several different set ups.

 

Well of course. The only reason it was rich in the first place is because it was trying to make more power.

 

Okay after a few days tracking down a blasted coolant leak in my daughter's Toyota Mister Mister it is nice to be upright again and I started the tear down to get the motor out on the Jeep. Looking at the top bolts from the bellhousing to the engine (one on the pass side and two on the drivers side) what is the best method for getting these out and back on? Not enough room to get a wrench on the back side of things from the engine bay.

 

The plate on the floor (transmission tunnel) unbolts and then you can take out the access piece to those bolts

 

Figured that was the case but which one? Just the shifter? or the entire one meaning the acceleration pedal needs to come out as well?

 

All of em.

 

After working on flat fender Jeeps for the most of my Jeep experience, the removable floor plate and dashboard of the CJ5 is a blessing.

On the CJ2A Jeeps I used to lower the transmission to get at the bell housing bolts, but nowadays I find it easier to remove the grill and radiator then pull / install the entire power pack as a unit, which saves a lot of crawling under, and contorting to get into tight spaces where you can't move a wrench but a little at a time. It just hurts less to do it that way, and I don't bleed as much.

When you get beyond a certain age you have to make adjustments to how you work on these things.

 

The M38 flafenders seem to be where the removable floor pans started, so the are a few factory flatfenders that are easier to work on.

 

Yep, and the M38 also had a removable instrument panel, two things they should have included with CJ3A and CJ3B.

 

Lumpectomy completed, now time to swap stuff over and make the spare look like the lump. The engine that was in there didn't have the small 90 rubber hose coming out of the head going into the top of the water pump. Not sure why that was done. Also pretty grease filled bell housing. The 8 and 9" clutches use the same fork right?

 

Ha age doesn't got much to do with that. I'm 38 surgeries in after getting hit by a dd on my motorbike 11 years ago. I now work wiser not harder. LOL.

 

Age and injuries certainly add their own to joint pain, but what I hate even more than the aches and pains in my joints is in the last few years the skin on my arms and hands has gotten so thin that just rubbing against something will tear the skin. Yesterday I was just changing the oil gauge flex line from the engine to firewall and even though I had a jacket on my right forearm looks like I have been in a fight with a wildcat. That is what age does.

 

Okay, getting there. Seems the motor mount brackets are different from whatever this engine came out of so waiting on some steel to make an adaptor for the one side rather than swap the timing cover stuff. While waiting for my steel I went to replace the metal filter in the cartridge today. Took the top bolt off and can't for the life of me get the cap to come off. I'm assuming it just simply sits there held in place by that big bolt correct? It doesn't screw on or anything like that? Have tapped it pretty good with a rubber mallet, tried to get a screw driver under it etc. and nothing but dont want to break something if it attaches some way I'm missing

 

Can you unscrew the inlet hose? Put the bolt back in the filter and loosen it one turn. Turn your air compressor down to about 36psi... air up the canister till it blows the gasket.