Fuel Pump Delete

Having a tough time finding a block off plate for the 304. I hear several types will fit though. Which would be the best one that i could just ask for at my local parts store

 

Big block Chevy.

 

I fear the people at the store are as ignorant as I, what size engine would I say ?

 

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...XPnIuB-bf6TUt98ydwwaApIiEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://bjsoffroad.com/fuel-pump-block-off-plate-amc-v8/

 

An update. Got a plate at oreillys. Just in time, this thing is leaking like crazy suddenly

 

Always like to recommend a inertia kill switch with any electric fuel pump installation.

 

So, I finally got off my keister and put the electric pump in. Got me to thinking though. If there is no return to the tank, what effect will it have on the pump

 

The fuel will deadhead at your needle and seat and may flood your engine assuming you are carbureted. A return would be
beneficial in many ways.

 

I thought that too, then i wondered how it would be any different from the mechanical one i replaced. Also, i do have a vapor return with the 3 port fuel filter. Would that suffice ?

 

It's been my experience that most external or inline pumps don't need a return unless you're running a pretty high performance unit. It's also been my experience that they don't live that long either.
If running a carburetor, I personally favor a mechanical pump.

 

Well, for anyone who cares, i tested fuel pressure at the return on the tank and got a healthy 6 psi. So, to answer my own question; yes, vapor recover return seems to work well.

 

sounds like you have it under control

 

Yep…even a broken clock…

 

Been looking at the inter webs. They say 4-4.5 psi for the 2100. Does that seem fair ?

 

This is a mostly useless reply but you may find something anecdotal in there that helps.

My 2100 worked fine with the stock style mechanical fuel pump on my 304. When I swapped to the 360, I used the old pump from the 304 and an Edelbrock carb that came with the 360. The Edelbrock was flooding due to the pump pushing fuel past the needle/seat. I used a regulator to bring the pressure down to right around 5 psi and it has worked fine that way for the last 10 months. I did not check the psi of the mechanical pump. The regulator was a 6 psi out of the box and I installed the gauge at the same time.

Mine is a deadhead setup with no return. I do intend to run a return but haven't gotten around to it. On a real hot day I will sometimes get minor flooding as a result of heat soak if I try to restart 5-10 minutes after shutting it down. Foot on the floor and it starts right up. That bothers me though, as I like my engines to start instantly. The 2100 setup on the 304 was deadhead also and it always started with barely a touch of the key.

 

Never met a piece of information that was useless. Now, with that said, i attached a cheap gauge to the line going into the carb. It reads 3psi. I restricted the return and could adjust the flow that way. I’m wondering if i put the regulator on the return, if that would be a good solution

 

There's a good video on YouTube discussing the regulator on the return line. I think the link below is it, if not, search his videos. I didn't have time to watch it to confirm.

 

That was good, now I know more than I understand. Gives me pause on what i have though. My “return” is actually the vapor return on the fuel filter, and the regulator i want to install is a deadhead type. Although the results would be the same in that fuel is returned to the tank, rather than cobble this together, I’m wondering if a setup like he has would be better