What Did You Do To Your Jeep Today?

Continuing my dana 30 project...
Cleaned up all the internal parts


Cleaned the inside the case and the axle tubes


Installed the pinion gear stack & the pinion seal.


Built up the carrier with the new Torq Locker. The new locker looks like an excellent product. Great machining & fit. It went together very easily and the instructions were well written with photos and tips. The locker included a new cross pin even though it doesn't show in their website pictures. Probably because the stock cross pin has flats milled into it to allow oil to flow under the spider gears.


Installed the carrier. I bought this case spreader a few years ago when I installed the Ox locker in the d44. I am glad I did because it makes assembly & disassembly SO much easier.


Got the bearing caps in & added a neodymium magnet for the 500 mile break in period of the locker.


My old FSM doesn't cover dana 30's of course. But I remembered that when dad sold his CJ7 in the 90's he gave me the chilton's manual he had for it. The CJ7 he pulled behind the motorhome he and mom bought for the retirement years. I just stuck the book on the shelf with my other Jeep books. When I got it out today I saw lots of dads notes all through the pages and on the cover. His handwriting is very recognizable and it brought a tear. Dad passed in 2008. He was a WW2 vet, went to OSU on the GI bill and worked hard all his life.

 

Here’s to your dad!

I have so much respect and awe for veterans. We owe so much to all of them that we’ll never be able to repay. I’ve tried my best to raise my daughter to respect and at least try to somewhat understand what all veterans have given us. I honestly don’t have the words to express my gratitude and appreciation.

 

When I purchased my Torq Locker, I didn’t see the cross shaft listed in the parts and had ordered one, they actually called me and asked if I really wanted it because it was included. Great company.

 

Finally got my 74 home and inside my new shop/garage last week. It has been stored inside over at my brothers place 30 miles away and not driven for 20 years. I did start it up and drive it around the farm yard a bit every 3-4 years just for exercise though.
The fun begins, I removed the windshield and had a new glass installed
The 2100 carb is getting an overhaul with the help of a kit from Mikes Carburator in Washington. Removed the front fenders for easy access . Installed a new starter, modified the alternator mount to accept my new 12SI 93AMP Alternator.
Installed a tempary direct feed oil pressure gauge, hot oil pressure at idle about 20 psi, and 55psi at 1200 rpm. Rotella 10W30.

 

I had assumed you had been working on it.

 

Really I had not been working on the actual jeep but rather preparing to give it a good going over and rebuild. I have been working building my new garage/ workshop and outfitting it so have a good place to work. New wire feed welder, air compressor, and commercial sand blast cabinet. I have been stocking up on new parts for the rebuild all along. Rebuilt power steering box conversion and new hoses and tie rods. A full set of new Ol Man Emu YJ springs and all new shackles and hangers. All new brake parts, everything from the peddle pad to the brake light lens is new, a new clutch kit, a rebuild kit for both axles, trans, and transfer case. All new seals, new radiator, new gas tank, supplies to build a new wiring harness. new seats, I just acquired this week the materials to build rotisserie for my tub and frame. As of now the only thing I am not planning to rebuild is the 304 engine. It has good compression, factory specks on all cylinders, and good oil pressure. I will likely replace the timing set and pull the oil pan and inspect while replacing the rear main seal.
Let the fun begin! I will likely start a build thread before long.

 

I have seen a couple of pics of your shop. Hope you do a build thread.

 

Well turns out I had far less time than I thought to replace the power steering pump. Good thing I ordered it last Wednesday. By the time I got home from work, it sounded like a can of rocks under the hood. The front bearing failed and took out the seal. Dumped fluid all over.
The pump that was sent wasn't exactly correct, instead of being threaded it had to be through bolted. Had to make a run into town.
While messing with this, I noticed the alarm light for the septic.system was on. The effluent pump wasn't running. Probably for days as the tanks were both full. Eek.
Pulled the pump assembly out and found 2 wires that had corroded though. Did some rewiring and rerouting of the wiring and float switches. Its pumping again. So that saved me a few hundred worth of new pump for now.
But, the aerator pump is also not working and it's actually broken. So new one gets here tomorrow


Edit-It's tomorrow and the aerator pump has been replaced with a FujiMac 80R2. The Clearstream branded pump would have ran me 600ish dollars.

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=7041223122576829

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=608288428167896

 

Making plans
Brown Santa showed up tday

already have the install kits
now I need to order the new gears
The D30 I have (to build) already has disc brakes, but I don't think the current wheels will clear the calipers.

 

, details and photos of the install please. If you can of course.

 

now I know why my buddy couldn't get that plate

 

Figured I would try fixing up my tailgate. So I bought a $35 spot blaster kit from Harbor Freight and some super fine Black Diamond coal slag from Tractor Supply. Blasted the whole thing down to bare metal. Pretty surprised the coal slag didn’t pit the metal at all.

here’s the before pic:




Here’s the after pic:



Gotta figure out how best to repair the bottom rail

any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

 

Here’s another before pic

 

,good Question. I have two front fenders that will need repaired also.

 

I use that Black Diamond fine media exclusively in my cabinet. Outstanding stuff.

 

I use the black diamond as well. I also have aluminum oxide and glass bead media. The aluminum oxide seems to cut the fastest on rusty frames and such but will leave a rough surface and the black diamond and glass beads leave a smother surface like for body panels. One must use extreme caution blasting thin panels, the heat from the blasting can cause warping and ruin the panel. I usually blast things like frames and steel wheels but not hoods and fenders and so on. I leave those to folks who know alot more about what their doing.

 

Good to know about not using on panels. Luckily I didn’t cause any warping this time
thanks for the tip.

 

Heavy duty Jeep repair today....
Somehow, during my 4 speed swap, I managed to lose both tcase shift knobs. I finally got around to ordering new ones and I installed them today

 

Likely smaller panels like a tailgate, floor boards grill and so on would be hard to damage, I think where the likely hood of damaging panels would be like on the hood or other large panel areas. With a hand held spot blaster gun I would guess you would be much slower removing paint so heat build up would likely not be a problem. I am sure there are folks here that can comment on this much better than me.

 

My wife is letting me have the entire 2-car garage this week so I can get my dana 30 axle swap done. The dana 27 is ready to be pulled out now, I'm just waiting for my dana 30 u-bolt plates to arrive tomorrow. Then I can mod them for the front mounted shocks & get this axle swap done!

I would like to thank the forward thinking Kaiser Jeep/AMC engineering department for putting a little shelf on the passenger side of the frame for supporting the disk brake caliper during maintenance. (On my jeep the bracket has never had another purpose so this must be what it is for.) I wish they had put one on the driver's side too. Of course disk brakes were not available for the jeeps then, but those engineers were visionary!