72 CJ 5 hardtop

OK, I need some re assurance on this deal I just got. I want a Hardtop for the winter months here in Iowa, damn cold, not enough snow though. I just scored one off of Ebay from a guy in Northern Iowa. I thought, " What the hell, I'll bid 50 bucks" Now I have a hardtop to pick up this weekend. It says fair condition and it needs some window work, but it's all there. I figure I will sand it and herculine inside and out. Even if I can't get the hard doors to work with that upper hinge it's still worth it, right???
How would someone with a fiberglass body attach a hardtop to ones' body??? I was thinking maybe a few strategically placed windshield tie downs would do the trick. Any Thoughts????
Any advice????
I'm all ears
High5

 

I saw that one you bought... all I can say is you get what you pay for. It looks like it needs a lot of TLC.

All research and op I have gotten on glass bodies has led me to believe that you should <U>NOT</U> put a hard top on them, especially the steel one you just bought. It is too heavy for the glass body and may crack it.

Of course, that is ultimately your decision - the companies that manufacture the glass bodies just warn heavily against even a fiberglass hard top being mounted on because of the weight, and that Myers cab you just bought with the doors weighs around 350 pounds.

Let us know what happens though! I wish you the best.

~M

 

I was kind of wondering about the weight issue. I have, what I believe is a good quality tub, 4WDH. I guess I didn't realize that top weighed 350 lbs. Well, I guess I will fix it up and see if I can use it, if not, I'm sure someone else can. It seems people are always looking for hard tops for pre 76 rigs. For 50 bucks I couldn't pass it up. I need a project for later this summer anyway. I wasn't figuring on buying a "perfect" top for 50 bucks. Plus, there was only 4 hours left on the auction and I didn't have time to get more pics. I didn't think it looked "that" bad. Where did you find this research that says not to put even a fiberglass top on a fiberglass body????

Thanks for the opinions,

High5

 

I don't know what hard top you bought or even an exact weight for any hardtop, but I just happened to take mine off the 59cj 5 last night. It seems original enough and has metal doors. I picked it up and just lifted it over my head. 150lbs at most over a 4 or 5 ft square area was my guess. It would have been much easier with two people, but it was not impossible to lift. I did remove the doors first, but they did not weigh much.

 

I have a hard time believing that the top weighs that much too, but I guess I won't be sure till I pick it up. If you want to look at it, go to Ebay and the item number is #7976798841.
Anyway, I am still going to try it and see what happens. Maybe I'll put some bracing to the roll bar.

Thanks
High5

 

I think you got a really good deal on that top! I went to ebay and looked at it, and really looks pretty good. I'm not sure why Mikibenz says it needs a lot of TLC. There is some rust along the lower edge, but it doesn't look very bad. Sand blast out the rust and paint it, it will look great! The side glass seal and missing door window can probably be replaced very inexpensively by any competent glass shop (the door window is flat and should be cheap to replace). Make sure to see if you can get the door hinge halfs that mount on the Jeep, along with the trim pieces that mount to the windshield frame that create a place for the door to seal against between the door and the windshield frame.

These tops are pretty heavy and I have no idea if the fiberglass tub is stong enough or not. When I have mine off the Jeep, I crawl under it and carry it around on my shoulders/back when I need to move it, not too tough. Removing/installing it by myself is a bit of a bear and I almost always back the Jeep up to a retaining wall so I can walk the top on. Otherwise it definitely is a two person job. The doors are pretty heavy also, so you'll notice a difference in handling with the top/doors on compared to when it's off. I glued carpet to the inside of my top. It makes it warmer and quieter, but I'm not sure I'd do it again.

I think you did fine on this top. If you don't want it, I'll send you the $50 and drive down from Minnesota and pick it up for myself. On second thought, the wife would kill me if I had a spare Jeep hardtop sitting around the house.

 

Thanks for the vote of confidence Mark. I did talk to the guy and he is including the hinges on the Jeep side. It will be nice that this doesn't need immediate attention since it's now 80 degrees out and no top is necessary. I do plan to either sand blast or sand it down and herculine the outside for sure, not quite sure what I will do to the inside.

High5

 

Also ask the seller if he has the trim pieces that go between the windshield frame and the door. If not, you'll have about a 3/4" gap you'll need to fill somehow. I'm missing the trim pieces and have some stick on foam weatherstrip attached to the front edge of the door where it meets the windshield frame. It works, but it would definetly be better to have the correct parts!

 

Watch out with the herculiner. I'm not sure how fade resistant it is, but some of those bedliner materials will fade pretty significantly. My top is painted, but the previous owner put some kind of texture on it first. I like the look of the textured top, but mine really needs to be repainted now.

 

Just an update on the top. I went and picked it up this weekend. The kid also had the 72 sitting in the yard for sale. Although it had no tub and looked as if the rear frame was bobbed, it had a running 304 in it.
Back to the top, it's definitely not going to be put on right away. It does need some work. Most of the parts are there, it doesn't have the hinges for the body. That's OK because I don't think I will use the hard doors anyway. The top doesn't weigh anywhere near 350lbs. I stood up underneath it and carried it off the trailer and put it in garage. Probably closer to 150 or so. It now will sit in the garage till I have time to work on it. It will be a learning experience. Any metal that needs to be replaced is flat and the support structure can be replaced with square tubing. The actual top of the top is in good shape. Plus it has a headliner in it. I already have a plan in mind, now all I need is a pipe bender and my Dad's welder.
Sounds like fun right???
Thanks for all the comments

High5

 

My idea of a lot of TLC is what you are planning to do to it. Also, I was comparing the one you bought to my top which was also listed on Ebay... and I do think you got a good deal on it if you are willing and able to do the work on it. I was just sad you didn't buy mine!!! LOL!

I wasn't trying to shoot you down in any way, and I am sorry if it came off that way.

I got the weight from some a Myers product list I found online... I can't remember what site. I will try to find a link for it. The doors weigh a good 40 pound each, at least mine feel like they do!

When I was shopping for a glass tub for my CJ7, most sites had a disclaimer saying they didn't recommend hard tops of any kind be put on their bodies - one reason I decided to go with a steel tub if I ever win the lottery. I have also talked to a few Jeepers who had glass bodies crack from the stress of a top plus trail riding...(both had a fiberglass top, not a steel one).

 

I don't think the top is too heavy for that fiberglass body. The fiberglass body tubs used on jeeps is made of the same fiberglass that hockey players use for their sticks. It is tougher than you think. The only thing that I would suggest is that if you have a body lift on your jeep that you should put some square pieces of steel between your body and lift puck to distribute the weight out over a larger area. I think your body would break at the lift puck if you didn't.

 

I have a Jeep Special Equipment hardtop thats basically the same as a Meyers and while the top itself may only weigh 150# the doors add approx another 100# to it. So that said, applying a rubberized liner like herculiner will add substantial weight to it (especially if you do it inside and out). I would suggest a good quality paint instead.:v6:

 

My thoughts exactly. Plus that extra weight is exactly where you least want it - high above the axles.

 

I agree with the advice re:herculiner and condensation! Regarding the support issue and fiberglass body... I would affix six supports that attach to the frame and brace below the fiberglass body (place small pad on 2"X2" square below glass area) to assist the weight distribution. Some small angle braces attached to the frame will assist with the stress of the top. We welded these on my buddies CJ after repairing his glass body gel coat. Stress cracks appeared above the rear quarter panel on each side. That top placed alot of stress from vibration and wind at only 50 mph! He also used the clamps mentioned above. Gunner