Trackick Disc Brake Conversion Assist

I have decided to upgrade my 1970 CJ5 Dauntless (Old Yella) to front disc brakes and will be using the Brennan's Garage Trackick brackets (already have) and an AMC Pacer master cylinder for disc front/drum rear. I'm converting front and leaving the 10" drums in the rear. I believe the Trackick is the best conversion for my purpose as no permanent alterations to Old Yella (i.e. grinding knuckles, etc.) are required. I have the following questions for anyone that has used the Trackick conversion:

=Which 2000+ Suzuki models using the vented 4-door calipers and rotors will work? (I know the 1988-95 Samuria parts are compatible)
=What master cylinder push rod will work with the AMC master cylinder?
=Was the original distribution block used or removed?
=Was it necessary to use an adjustable proportioning valve and/or residual pressure valve(s)?
=Will the late model original Jeep 5" wide wheels clear the calipers?

I know the disc conversions have been discussed many times on this forum but I haven't been able to find specific answers to these issues. I've spent a couple of weeks searching the internet, this and other forums, and watching several hours of Youtube. But then at my age I probably just missed it.
Thanks in advance.

 

I did this about a year ago on my ‘69 so can answer some, but not all of your questions. I also kept the rear 10” brakes.

I don’t know about the vented disks as I used the solid.

I used the stock master. As recommended in some other posts, I used the rear chamber for the front brakes. I removed the residual pressure check valve from the output of the rear chamber. It was easy to do as it is under the large nut of the output.

I used the stock distribution block.

I used a 2lb wilwood residual check valve in line from the rear chamber (for front brakes) of the master to the stock distribution block.

I put an adjustable proportioning valve in the line from the front master chamber (for the rear brakes) to the stock distribution block. One of the reasons I did this is I’m running a snow plow in the winter. The weight of the plow out front really unloads the rears, so I wanted to be able to dial down pressure for better brake balance.

so basically, all my brake line changes and additions were between the master cylinder and stock distribution block.

I’m very happy with the braking so far (haven’t plowed with it yet).

In the summer I ran with 265/75r16 tires, about the same width as a 31x10.50 but a touch taller. For a top, I just had a bikini top. I ran the proportioning valve turned about half way down and had good brake balance. For the winter I’ll put on the Meyer hard top I’m currently refurbishing which will offset the weight of the plow some, but not completely. Good luck, you’ll like front discs.

Tim

 

Thanks Tim for the information. Did you use a residual valve for the rear brakes?
Martin

 

For the rear circuit I left the stock check valve that is in the outlet of the master cylinder. I could take some pics of what I did if it helps. I used the copper-nickel bake line for what I did between the MC and distribution block, it’s pretty easy to work with.

Tim

 

If you have KH 15" wheels, you will most likely have to space them out, or grind on the caliper a bit. I chose to grind caliper. I also did the knuckle stud upgrade at the time, and used 1 1/4 long button head bolts.

 

Tim, your description for using the original m/c seems fairly simple. Now I'm debating which way to go, original m/c or Pacer m/c.

Jason, thanks for the information on the KH wheels; that was a major concern. What m/c did you use? Did you use the Tracker/Samuria calipers or did you go with the later vented rotor calipers?

 

I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row so when I start this project I don't end up spending more time going back and forth to the parts store than actually working on the conversion. Not that I've ever done that before.

 

This is the proportioning valve I used https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...ortioning-Valve-Kit-With-Fittings,387281.html. I ordered most of my stuff from Rock Auto using Brennan’s site to compile my parts list
https://brennans-garage.com/collect...ackick-disc-brake-conversion-bracket-two-pair

Since my stock soft lines went to the frame, I believe I used the Honda brake hoses. If I recall correctly, I had to use an adapter to go from the SAE hardlines to the metric soft lines. I think I found those at NAPA. Don’t forget about the banjo bolts, my calipers didn’t come with them, though they did have the crush washers. Here are a couple pics of the lines from the master to distribution block with the blue 2lb valve for the front and proportioning valve for the rear.

Tim

 

I used a 78 Corolla MC with a remote reservoir kit.
I also used standard tracker calipers and rotors.
Here's what I copied.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/554685228512878/permalink/886970548617676/

 

Im running two jeeps with this set up....stock mc and prop valve. a 74 and a 76 neither has any mc mods at all (no residual valve removal) and solid rotors. I haven't had any issues.

 

Another question, did you guys use blue or red thread locker in the calipers mounts?

 

Andrew, I don’t recall for sure If I used loctite, but if I did, it would have been blue.

Tim

 

I used blue on metric bolts to caliper bracket. Red on the 6 stud upgrades.