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Need Pics Of 61 Harness Near Steering Box..

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by ROBERT S MURAWSKI, Feb 28, 2021.

  1. ROBERT S MURAWSKI

    ROBERT S MURAWSKI New Member

    I was having fun until now, I found a few pictures wiring harnesses online but I just can't seem to get this straightened out... the colors don't seem to match up.

    I think I know which wires go to the rear( turns, ground, parking lights) what I don't have is brake line circuit. I have 3 cut brown wires 2 are hot all the time 1 is not. The PO had them barrel connected and they were all pulled out. One of the 3 wires was hooked up to the horn at one point...

    If anyone has a pic of there mess maybe I can figure out mine.

    Thanks,
    Bob
     
  2. Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    surprised no one has one . but I'll give it a shot
    you have already identified wires to rear lights
    (1) hot wire from light switch stud (breaker)
    should also have a inline fuse to pressure switch on master
    second wire on pressure switch should be returning to turn signal switch , for brake lights
    thinking this is wire with no power
    (2) hot wire could be hot wire to horn . horn is grounded at horn button
    upload_2019-9-22_11-58-4.gif
     
  3. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    IMO the best approach is to trace the wires.

    Copy the wiring diagram to a separate sheet and blow it up with the copy machine to 2 or 3 times normal size. That will give you plenty of room to draw over the wires and make notes. Do you have a multimeter? Test the circuits for continuity with your multimeter. If you need to test from the dash to the back of the car, buy a coil of wire, unwind it and put an alligator clip on each end. Clip to your test lead run the wire to the back of the car where the wire comes out. Then test for continuity. There are commercial leads that will do this - https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Hawk-Tools-Retractable-Leads/dp/B01KEINDSI/ref=sr_1_3 - though you can make your own.

    You have the car in front of you - that is your best reference. You can sort it out. Measure and take careful notes, and go one circuit at a time.

    Also, the TSM has the wiring diagram. You need the TSM. It's widely available and not expensive.
     
    norville likes this.
  4. norville

    norville New Member

    Thanks, I think one of the hot wires is supposed to be connected to my oil pressure dummy switch. When I use that hot to power my lights it kicks on the oil pressure light in the gauge.

    I did try jumping the the wires to eliminate the brake switch wires (they are not hooked up ) ill have to try again. With a better jumper. I really do nit want to cut this harness apart to trace wire out...

    Does anyone have a pic of that area?

    Thanks,
     

    Attached Files:

  5. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    norville and bigbendhiker like this.
  6. Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    There should be a three circuit barrel connector for the stop switch & tail lights, the stop/turn signals will be on separate one barrel connectors.
     
  7. yup. i got one free of charge from a member here, and it's got a plethora of useful information. it's a must have.
     
  8. ROBERT S MURAWSKI

    ROBERT S MURAWSKI New Member

    I got it tonight, once I connected my ground ... oops and then realized all the wires need to be hooked up because they run through the turn signal switch. It wasn't to bad. I figured out my second 12v signal and eliminated the dummy light 12v because I have a mechanical oil pressure switch . I will have to figure out something for that as I'm sure it's needed to be a complete circuit.

    My turn signal switch was not playing nice either, as it lied to me a few times but it's "fixed" now . I used a jumper to represent my brakes on .. And then it was trial and error..


    Thanks all for the help .

    I do have one issue that must be fixed before to long. After I settled my lights and everything, brakes turn signals ect.. the green light on my turn signal switch stays on with key off.. it still blinks when the turn signal is activated. I may have to pull it apart to see if something is touching? Any thoughts?

    Lastly what's up with the little dial on my turn signal switch right next to the column?

    Thanks again

    Bob
     
  9. Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    That's a "self canceller"- the little wheel rides against the steering wheel, when it turns the signals pop off.
     
    norville likes this.
  10. norville

    norville New Member

    That's what I original thought,, but its not even close to the wheel. I guess I'll have to adjust it ..

    Thanks
     
  11. norville

    norville New Member

  12. i could get you a picture of my jeeps wiring... only issue is that my lights don't work.
     
  13. ROBERT S MURAWSKI

    ROBERT S MURAWSKI New Member

    Well it's not over yet, I only have lights with the key on. I didn't notice because I needed key on to test the turn signals..

    Next I have a 6a draw on the battery with the key off, and 12v on my +post at my coil. And the warn signal light is always on when the battery is connected.

    I did wire in an exciter wire to my alt, maybe it needs a diode? What color wire is supposed to go to coil from the harness? Green? 20210302_164102.jpg
     
  14. norville

    norville New Member

    I stand corrected, I do not have the wires correct. The only way things work is if my brake lights are on.. if I break that circuit I have nothing.
     
  15. norville

    norville New Member

    Ok, charged battery and some wd40 in the turn signal and it all sorted out. Thanks all
     
  16. ROBERT S MURAWSKI

    ROBERT S MURAWSKI New Member

    Oh, and I figured out that if I use my old field wire grey , and connect it to the exciter wire on the alt. It all works out. No more 6a draw..