'64 Cj5 Ford 5.0 Ho Swap-help

Alright. Looking for some experienced folks. Currently underway of a 5.0 swap. Looking for pictures or advice on how foot pedals were re-done. I have the clutch and brake pedals installed. #1.. I need to finish the firewall to do the gas pedal and steering column. Room is going to be tight it seems for the throttle and steering inside the "cab". The tunnel is sitting on the bell. I have already put a 1" spacer lift to alleviate some of the problem. I have the motor mounted down to where the steering pump casing is less than an inch from the frame. Can i relocate steering pump to move motor further down and thus making more room for install? Any pictures or suggestions? Just looking for ideas and work arounds. Thank you!!!

 

Why put the engine into the firewall? Looks kinda low on the frame too.

 

I've never done a Ford swap. Personally I'd get the grill on and the radiator in ( tucked up tight to the grill) sort out the fan then get the engine forward as far as reasonable. Looks low to me too and low mount PS pumps are a hassle with any swap.

 

I've never done the swap either but have thought about it, though with an earlier carbed 302. I have a 72-75 grill I intend to use as it places radiator much further forward and should bolt to the fenders (and if it doesn't bolt to the fenders with the factory locations, it's easy to modify).

Looks like a modern engine with a modular style accessory mounting bracket on the front???? I believe this style is wider than the old type of accessory mounting where every component had it's own bracket and sometimes, going back further, it's own drive belt. Maybe it's not modular but the brackets look like big thick cast aluminum pieces which take up valuable room vs stamped steel types of years past. Maybe other brackets are available for the engine you're using if it was used in other models.......Mustang bracket vs maybe a Crown Vic bracket or Explorer bracket or something.

I like the low mounting and keeping the engine back, all in the name of a low COG but, it creates challenges, some of which are not worth the effort or trade off. With the engine that low, will the front axle hit the oil pan at full spring compression off road? Or the front driveshaft maybe? Lots of things to consider. If you are just going to drive it on the street some of these things are non issues.

 

This AC eliminator kit moves the steering pump up quite a bit.

Mustang A/C Delete Kit (85-93) 5.0 - LMR.com

You can also use a 94-95 Mustang or 5.0 Explorer front cover, pulleys, and brackets to make the engine over 2 inches shorter in the front. The Explorer brackets have a high mount pump.

 

Well it’s low because I guess that’s just where the angles of the stick drive train line it up. It’s back because I did not want to cut the front crossmember. It’s still hitting the tunnel.

 

thank you, I think I will give it a try!

 

You guys have already been great. I do think I will explore the explorer mounts and if I get enough space I may move the motor up and get new drive lines

 

Here's the late 90s short-nosed V8 Explorer setup with the AC compressor removed and a shorter belt installed. Narrow at the bottom and wide at the top. Nice for a Jeep.


You can see how close the belt is to the crankshaft damper on the short-nose setup. The face of the water pump puller barely sticks past the belt:


One of your biggest concerns is going to be clearance between the oil pan and the front pumpkin. Much less of a deal if you have a lift, but you'll want to adjust your bump stops to make sure contact can't happen.

 

Yes on the lift. It’s a spring over. It probably has about 7” total . I see what you’re talking about with the pumpkin. I’ll investigate further

 

With a 7" lift you probably won't have any issues.

 

I’m 1.5” closer than the bump stops. I’ll have to remember to check full compression before I get on it lol

 

If I remember when the small block for was in my flatfender, you'll also need a small diameter front driveshaft for starter clearance. A normal diameter one will rub the starter when the front suspension is compressed.

 

I was wondering about that.... dang

 

This^^. Hit up the junk yards for a V8 Explorer front accessory set up, eliminate the AC if needed or turn it into a compressor if you have the space to keep it. Those 96-99ish Explorers with the pushrod 5.0's had a lot of good parts on them. Their only hold back is the very mild cam Ford installed. Stick a Mustang cam in them and they're good for about 300HP. The stock Explorer motor I have in my 3A flat scoots!

 

The drive lines should never dictate where you place an engine. Driveshafts are easy to either fabricate yourself or outsource to a place like Tom Woods Custom Drive Shaft Shop | Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts

I made my front shaft and used Tom for the rear