leaky transfer case

I have a 1969 CJ5 with the D18 T-case which leaks out the rear seal. I was told that with that Case it is impossible to stop the leak because if I go over 45 mph a new seal will start to leak also. Is their any truth to this statement? Any input would be appreciated

 

my case leaks all the time, when it stops leaking is when i get worried. i have put new seal in and rtv, but it never seem to matter, it always starts to leak again. i just call it my "heat actuated overflow valve"

 

The sealing surface on the yoke may be worn or rough (pitted). You may need to clean up or smooth the yoke sealing surface. Also there are shims behind the rear bearing cap that are supposed to have sealer on them when they are put back together. Replace the seal and check the yoke surface. Mine doesn't leak.

 

bull butter!!

 

Mine dont leak either, maybe I should check the level? Just kidding, But mine does not leak, The only leak i have rightr now is from the front knuckles on the dana 27 front end now since I got my power steering pump replaced.

 

I was told that it might be caused by the parking brake being out of balance. Do you guys have the parking break on the t-case?

 

X 2

 

My jeeps have always marked it's territory with Gear oil.......

 

All factory dana 18's in the jeep had the parking break at the rear, the leaking can be stopped. It may take trying a few different things but it will stop.

 

Mine doesn't leak. I even have a grove in the yoke. I just smoothed up the yoke and it hasn't leaked yet. I must have done it right the first time.

 

Mine leaks no more. Just had it and the T86A rebuilt. wish the t86 was nice enough not to mark its territory.

JK

 

I noticed leaking around the yoke nut on my Dana 20. I drained the oil, took off the driveshaft and yoke, cleaned the yoke splines (in and out). Then I put gasket sealer all over the splines and put it back together. No leaks so far.

Josh

 

Here's a cut/paste from something I wrote on another forum that may help you. Also, the last statement about lubing the seal should prevent it from burning up at 45 MPH, or any speed for that matter. If your rear bearing is shot, a new seal will not cure the leak. What I was explaining below is that different brands or thicknesses of seals will seal against previously unused portions of the yoke, giving you the opportunity to re-use an otherwise bad yoke.




The nice thing about that particular application is the wide variety of radial lip seals available. As far as I can tell the main difference in them is their thickness & where they seal against the yoke. The great part about this is that instead of going to a Speedi-Sleeve, which with a little grit can be worn right thru by a new seal, you can just install one of the other seals & get a good fit, sealing on a "virgin" portion of the yoke. Any bearing dealer should be able to supply you with these & possibly other seals for that application. From my notes, these should work:

CR (Chicago-Rawhide) 15142 This is the thinnest seal of all & also seals inboard the most of these four.

Federal Mogul (National) 473229 The thinnest of this brand, same thickness as the CR but seals just outboard of where it seals.

Federal Mogul (National) 481837 Medium thickness, about 5/16", you may not be able to use the felt "gasket" with this one, but most of the time the felt gasket is not supposed to be used with the modern seals anyway.

Federal Mogul (National) 450185 As thick as the cavity, about 3/8", & also might not be able to be used with the felt.

All four of these are radial lip seals with a garter spring & I'm pretty sure all are considered to be double lipped. I'll bet your bearing supplier can find others that will work too.

Don't forget to lube them on the sealing surface with a dollop of oil or grease before you install the yoke or you'll shorten the operating life of the seal.

Hope this helps!

 

JAB,
Thanks for the great seal info. It's this kind of stuff I can really use!

 

I didn't say mine never leaked!!!

 

thanks for all the info I will try your suggestions

 

Re: leaky transfer case-fix

Are you replacing the felt seal as well??? My small parts kit or overhaul gasket set came with felt seals that went on both output shafts. See #76 in the picture of this URL. I believe the leak might be the gear lube leaking out the splines of the shaft not the joke surface on its seal.

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Photos/Parts/TransferCase.gif

Found the actual kit on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10076&item=4523242767&rd=1

 

Re: leaky transfer case-fix

If you think it's leaking out the yoke splines, take the yoke off, clean up the splines on the yoke and output shaft, and reassemble. Before putting on the yoke nut/washer, put some RTV around the bottom of the threads where the male/female splines meet.

FWIW, it IS possible to have a non leaking transfer case. Just gotta werk for it.

 

hello there is a round paper gasket that goes on first before the rubber seal.I did not know this till I got a gasket set from jcw.put the round gasket /rubber seal felt seal /no more leak/hope this helps