Engine And Transmission And Transfer Case Identity Help Requested

I had Heim joints on my Mustang for many years without any wear issues, but it never got many miles and never saw much dirt. These dust boots might help them last longer: Rubber Boot Cover for Spherical Heim Joint Rod Ends on Control Arms

It seems like the loads would be very similar to a normal tie rod ends with a flipped drag link. I can't decide if this setup is better or worse. I don't hate it. Double shear would be better, but that's hard to do on an existing knuckle.

 

I ran Teflon lined 3/4” heims on my racer, and I’d get a season (2-3 races) out of a set, but that was about as brutal an environment as you could find. I’m hoping for better results on the track bar on my current build. Maybe I’ll try one of those boots.

 

And why I'll never use heim joints in steering applications, at least in any street driven vehicle. The "1 ton" 7/8-18 TRE's are a much better choice. I had to replace the heim joint on the JK track bar with all of 50k miles on it and one would presume that joint sees a lot less movement than a tie rod joint.

inspections?????

 

Replying to myself.... With the setup on this Jeep, you do need to be sure that bolt through the Heims stays good and tight so it doesn't wobble. It doesn't have the advantage of a taper to firmly attach it to the arm like a tie-rod end. It only has the compressive force of the bolt and friction keeping it from moving relative to the arm. Even if the hole in the arm is super precise, there will always be some slop so the bolt can slide in.

 

When I built my Nissan I had exactly one heim joint in double-shear at the end of the drag link connecting to the tie rod. It was not a great place for that joint and although I had no issue with it I knew it was not a good design. I converted it to a TRE like above and have had no issues and it passes inspection without question.

 

vehicle state inspections here
when it's done your at the mercy of the inspector
some older vehicles get tagged antique . (25 years or older . gray area here ) no inspection required
not to be used as a daily driver
and I've seen plenty of junk on roads that shouldn't be driven on antique plates

 

Here’s the steering images that were requested . I don’t see how there could be another attachment to the knuckles these are cast into the knuckle and similar to my sons M38A1

 

Heck here in North Carolina vehicles prior to OBD-II (1996) only get a safety, vehicles older than 40 years do not require a safety. My '69 Blazer gets a new sticker every year and has not left the garage since 2011. Heavy-Duty vehicles with high GVWR also do not get emissions testing regardless of year (do not remember the cut off weight).

 

Some more info about your Jeep. Your springs look exactly like the 2.5" lift Pro-Comp brand springs on the Jeep in my avatar. Rancho springs have the same type clamps, by the profile at the end of the leaves is different.

The Pro-Comps are known to be on the stiffer riding side, but not as bad as Rancho lift springs. The Pro-Comps seem to work OK on my Jeep. Flex is somewhat limited, and when the going gets bumping you need to slow down. Softer options are Skyjacker Softride or BDS springs.

Those are nice looking U-bolt skid plates under the springs.

 

Those springs look like SuperLift springs too; same leaf shape, military wrap, clamps, and thickness/# leaves.
Yes, nice spring plates too.
-Donny