Engine And Transmission And Transfer Case Identity Help Requested

I’m going to need to read these posts over a few times! I’m getting lost in the details but it’s great to finally get to know what I have . The paint is airbrushed to look like a rock or rocks. It was a selling point for me because I earn a living with stone.

 

It's definitely closed knuckle.

The main issue with the 10" brakes is parts availability and price. The 11" Bendix brakes Jeep used starting in 1972 on the CJ are much better in that regard. These larger brakes are/were a popular upgrade, but they are getting more scarce.

 

It does look like a D27 front axle. Those, like the D25, have king pin bearings rather than ball joints. The bearings are lubed via the knuckle "reservoir" which also lubes the axle U-joints. Your shocks appear to be the Rancho 9000 adjustable ones. IMO, desirable. Nice Jeep.

 

Yes they seem too small for the wheels and tires most people have. So far after shoes and some attention they are working fine.
Closed knuckle ? That’s a new one to me... good grief I have a lot of research to do!

 

I don’t know enough about it to properly evaluate it or your comment. It steers fine with no death wobble at fwy speeds . And it seems ok off road with the exception of first gear seem not low enough .
Thanks for the help !

 

Closed knuckle is an older design. All these axles have some kind of universal joint at the hub end, to allow for turning the wheels. In an open knuckle axle, that joint is exposed and visible, and the wheel pivots on ball joints similar to what a 2WD car would use. A closed knuckle axle has a polished steel sphere about the size of a softball that contains the universal joint. The joint is bathed in lube inside that sphere. As mentioned, the king pin bearings - doing the same job as the ball joints - are also exposed to this lube.

Open knuckle axles require less maintenance, are more durable, and provide a tighter turning radius than a comparable closed knuckle axle.

 

Gotcha my Land Rover has closed knuckles then as well , great to know the vernacular . Thanks again . I’m going to look for more casting numbers on the engine now .

 

I just found the casting number behind the intake near the firewall 25506397 so you were correct 231 !
Circa 79-80s I guess

 

More details,

 

Is that a vinyl wrap? Man, somebody put some time into that.

 

No it’s paint applied with an airbrush . The artist is well known in the custom car world his name is Jay Werner. I got ahold of him just to talk to him and tell him a stone carver has his work. It’s also easy to touch up.
Thanks for the feedback!

 

Even more impressive!

 

The steering box mounting looks solid. From the pictures so far, it's got good mods that are well done. It's still fairly original though.

 

It was a great day today taking short breaks from work to find all the informative feedback on this forum! I have been on quite a few forums over the years and yours has been the best out of all them. Not missing the snarky comments from other forums at all! Thanks everyone who took the time to help . This Cj has an angry third synchro so it’s an art form to slide it in third gear without a grind so identifying the transmission was important as I decide the best route to go for that. It originally was from a much higher altitude so it’s running lean . I’m getting the jets changed to smooth it out a bit. It has a Holly 4 barrel that seems like overkill and some type of non stock cam.
I have searched the forum as a lurker while sorting out other details left for me by the PO. What a perfect resource You guys have created!
This cj is fun to drive once I do the yoga move to get in, it’s nice to be able to go up a grade without people getting irritated as they do in my Land Rover or Unimog.

 

Welcome from Michigan, that is one Cool Jeep, Gotta Love it. Beautiful Paint Job. Good Luck with it, Enjoy the Jeep World. Rick

 

my 70 also has the underseat tank. i dont know the month of manufacture though.

that paint job is the bee's knee's.

id like to see some more posts of your steering setup, from tie rods to steering column. very interesting use of heim joints.

 

I think the main problem with Heim joints for steering: not legal in all locales. I would look into this. Nothing functionally wrong with them AFAIK.

 

+1, I was going to mention this.

Also, heims are great when new, are nearly impossible to completely fail or destroy, but they get sloppy fairly quickly, especially in dusty conditions. This becomes an issue with steering components.

One concern I have with the design on this one, I’d think it’s putting double the (twisting) leverage on the passenger’s side knuckle arm. Force is being applied on the top, and it’s meeting opposite resistance on the bottom. I’m no engineer, so I’m not sure if it’s any different than what a normal setup applies to the arm...

 

wouldn't pass inspection here