Dana 25 Warn Hub-brake Drum Interference?

Im restoring a 1960 CJ5. When I went to remove the front brake drums I had to remove the entire Warn locking hub too. The warm hub is ever so slightly larger in diameter than the inside hole of the brake drum.
Does anyone know if this is the factory design or am I dealing with a different Waren hub than what I should have on it?

 

Usually it's the tab washers that interfere. Tap them down a bit and the drum might come off. Also, it's not difficult to remove the Warn hubs. You'll want to so you can repack the front wheel bearings and replace the grease seal when you do the brakes. The Warn hub pretty much won't go on if you have the wrong one.

 

Keep in mind the Warn hubs are not "factory" parts, but are accessory pieces. The Warn hubs are right around 4 1/4" which is real close to the diameter of the center hole in the brake drum. Your drums could have been replaced with aftermarket in years past. I've never had a drum that didn't wiggle over the Warn hub, though some have been real tight, shaving paint off.
-Donny

 

The drum stops at the main hub body long before reaching the locking tabs. Maybe I just didn’t try hard enough to slide the drum over the hub. New ones are going back on. I didn’t realize these locking hubs were not a factory option. It seems like every old jeep I see has them on it. My next project is a 1950 WO pickup that has warn hubs too. At least I’m a little smarter now when I tackle that project.
Thanks for the replies.

 

I have a set of aftermarket 8" wagon wheels on one of my Willys Wagons that won't clear the Warn Lock o Matics. I have to remove the lockout hub to remove the front wheels. I threw these wheels on because the tires were good enough for a 250 mile tow home, so they're still on there.
-Donny

 

I thought a pic may help. The sequence would the wheel comes off first which does fit over (just barely) the locking hub. The drum is next and it does not fit over the locking hub. I’m the pic I put the locking hub back on after drum removal. I have enough loose parts laying around to keep track of. I measured both the locking hub main body and brake drum internal hole diameter. The locking hub diameter is .084” larger than the drum internal hole. There is no forcing it so the locking hub must come off to remove the drum. I wouldn’t have designed it that way but that’s the way it is.

 

Lock-o-matics ? If my memory serves me, these are a less used locking hub, kind of auto locking when engaged in lock. Might be wrong but they are fatter than the normal warn locking hub. Someone correct me if wrong.

 

I've got 10 inch drums . and the drums have to be wiggled and pulled to get over the lock-o-matics
they do come off . without removing hubs
"kind of auto locking when engaged in lock". . nope hubs with lock when power is sent to them through driveshaft(free position )
manual locking is for compression braking and total locking of hub

 

I just went out and measured a 9" drum inner bore; 4.15". Now, I need to dig out a Lock o Matic to measure the steel body diameter.
Just my opinion, but I think the Lock o Matics are the best operating and stongest locking hub out there, as long as bubba hasn't been fixing on them. They have to have all their components to function correctly.
-Donny