Norcal69's Common Sense Build.

I cleared pretty easily with the 1-1/4”. I’ll throw it on the forklift in the next few days and make a taller bumpstop if needed.

 

I’ve had a bit of a saggy a** since my yj spring install.
The Jeep sits level when it’s low on fuel but when full it starts sagging pretty good. Add a dog, cooler and we’re just going down. I picked up the OME recommended extra leaf. My plan is to add the leaf to the spring packs and shorten the shackle length. Currently the shackles are 4.5” center to center. Goal is to get down to 4”.

 

What axle is that to have park brakes on the back.

 

It is a centered d44 from a 72-75 Jeep. Brakes are stock 11”

 

I thought maybe someone figured out the rear park brakes on our old offset44 inhat my t case brake

 

You can put the later 11" brakes on your early offset axle.

 

The extra leaf install went pretty quick. Both the before and after pics are with low fuel in both tanks. After filling with fuel we still have a slight rake that will likely sit level when loaded with camping gear. My original plan was to install the extra leaf and shorten the rear shackle. I am going to run it for a while before changing the shackle length.

Before



After

 

I took the plunge and mounted the 33's up permanently. Right now I am running a 4" boomerang shackle on the front to prevent inversion. On the rear I am running a home built 4.5" shackle with a welded in cross brace.

 

Any spring width you want them for.....
Boomerang Shackle 4"

 

The H support is what makes the boomerang shackle effective against inversion. I have yet to install the center bolt and sleeve on mine.... but will do before rubicon.

 

I got the 2" front drive line installed. Preliminary flex test looks good but I did not unhook the sway bar. When the sway bar is unhooked It looks like it will still clear.....but its gonna be close to the starter.

 

New bigger spare tire pad. The small 2"round stop pad allowed the carrier to flex, this taller 3"x2" pad took about half the flex out.

 

Trail Shelf Build........
I stole this idea from FinoCJ after last years group Rubicon trip.
I was running a roof basket for the majority of my jeep camping, grocery running, hunting, ranch work, ect...... Everything was great until I unhooked the sway bar and loaded it up for camping/wheeling on the Rubicon.
That rubicon trip taught me several things.....
1) The the loaded roof basket/ no swaybar combo makes for a very high center of gravity.
2) My wife packs way too much shi*
3) I drive like a little girl off road......
So after modifying my wife's luggage and camping comfort expectations.... I have set out to build what I call a Trail Shelf.
The shelf will be easily removable for the other 95% of the time that the jeep is in use.
The dimensions of the cargo area are 20"x 50" with 2" tall sides.... a little bit more than half the area of my former roof basket.
I bent it up out of 18ga steel. It is a little heavier than I envisioned..... we will be addressing that issue shortly.
Pics.....

24" x 54" 18Ga



Edges marked out, 1/8" holes drilled in every corner.




Corners notched with shears....



On to the straight brake.......



Then the Pan brake.......





All welded up.



Some mock up.





Now I said at the beginning that this ended up a bit heavier than I envisioned it would be. So here is where I am at. Basically every intersection of solid line is a 1.5" (32) total dimple die holes. The smaller line marks will be 1" (21) dimple die holes....... 1/8" pilot holes are drilled.... step drill is next.

 

Concerning the weight of the shelf and the items stowed up there, have you thought of a nylon web type net of the same dimensions?

 

I did not weigh it before I started drilling holes........... but I will afterwards. This one will likely get passed on to Steve and I'll make myself a better one.....

 

I did think about a webbing net..... but I don't think I could get it tight enough to do the job. This piece is about to go on a major diet....