Leaky YF Carb. 75CJ5

I've posted before about the leaking carb on my 75 CJ5 and got some tips but it is still leaking. It only leaks on bumpy or uneven surfaces but I'm not talking about rock crawling. Just a potholed road or mild bumpy up and down two track will do it. Liquid gas runs out the front and down onto the manifold.

I've looked at it and had three mechanics look at it and the best we can figure is it is leaking down the accelerator pump linkage onto the throttle shaft then out the front. It is the original one barrel Carter. Apparently they originally had a stack of very thin rubber washers with a small metal piece on top that compressed them to keep the gas inside the bowl from sloshing down this linkage.

I'm hoping somebody else has had this problem and has a fix for it. The carb specialist said in his experience most of these carbs are missing these washers so getting another may not fix it. He's looking into an autolite carb for me now. I don't want to go to a Webber unless I have to. Is there a source for these washers or for a totally rebuilt carb that won't have the same problem?

Please Help!

 

I haven't heard of this problem with the YFs. They've been around a long time, and were used on lots of vehicles, so if there were a bad leakage problem I'd think it would have been fixed. Could it be something as simple as the float level is set too high? At least on the '77 YF picture that I have, the accelerator pump is entirely contained within the float bowl. Nothing sticks through the top of the carb. Can you post a picture of where you see gas coming from?

The Weber package will give you everything you need to bolt-on and go. You can make a similar upgrade using a 2-barrel Autolite/Motorcraft 2100 or 2150. There are still a lot of these out in the junk yards. Look on anything with carburetor and a Ford 302 or 351. They were also OE for Jeeps - my truck now has a Motorcraft 2100 from a '79 Cherokee with a 360 V8. There are plenty of articles on the web about this convrsion.

If it were mine, I'd also get the 2-barrel intake and exhaust manifolds from an '81 or newer CJ-5 with a 258. The exhaust manifold from the newer Jeeps is much smoother, and the 2-barrel intake will halp you get the most out of the conversion. Be sure to get the throttle linkage with the manifolds.

 

Well, Greenbean, you're not alone. Do a search on YF carb or something similar; you will see lots of similar complaints. I'm on my third rebuild kit now. General consensus seems to be that the generic kits from a regular parts house don't have the correct needle and seat. Didn't learn that before I bought the second one. The aperture in the seat is .020 larger than stock. Check with The Carburetor Shop; he's in Missouri. I have his kit, but still have some leakage problems. Haven't gotten back to it yet. Yes, more than likely, it's leaking around the accelerator lift rod opening. Mine is on an F-Head, but the YF problems seem to be as common as the carbs themselves. I want to keep mine just because I'm teminally stubborn.... I'd give you the direct link, and photos, too, but, I ain't up to speed on all that, yet. Good luck to you!

 

Thanks,

If you pull the top off to adjust the float you will see the flat linkage piece coming up next to the float bowl. It is open to the bowl so gas can run down it to the throttle shaft. That's why they had the rubber seals there in the past I guess.

Believe me I have been around and around adjusting the float etc. This seems like the only place the gas can be getting out and the carb guy says there is no fix. I'm don't believe that because if this were the case there would be burning jeeps all over the place! I'd rather keep the original equipment but I don't want to buy another YF just to find it leaked the same way. The carb guy thinks they are all this way (he says old fords had the same carb in the '60's and had the same problem.)but nobody I know has ever had this problem. I'm unsatisfied with his solution (actually he doesn't have one). This can't be that common and if it were there would be a way to fix it.

 

What gets me is that I never knew of this problem until I had it rebuilt recently. I thought I was pretty confident about the guy who rebuilt mine, but I'm no expert by any means. If you do the search on this site, you will eventually see what I mean about it not being a rare annoyance. I would think if it hadn't happened in the first forty years, but does now, it must be something relatively simple and is related to the rebuild procedure and parts. If you aren't in a rush to change the carb, I'd have to recommend you at least call the carb guy I mentioned earlier. He'll know exactly what you're talking about. Why mine still weeps a little, I don't know yet, but I'm thinking it's still a float level issue. I'm not giving up yet. Too stubborn for that.

 

I went through about 3carbs and rebuilds before I did what timgr said.
Got me the two barrel intake off of a 85 eagle for $50. and got the weber. Have not regretted it at all.

 

After rebuilding my FY 3 times i'm swiching to a MC2100, I just got tired of leaks and the overly rich mixture.

 

What is the model number of the Weber?

So the 2bbl intake from any 258 I6 will work?

 

So far I've been able to rule out a bunch of stuff but no luck finding the part that seals the A pump linkage. Anymore ideas??

 

just an idea
my parts manual shows the sealing washers you describe on the flat acc linkage for the early version of the YF on an F4 (938SD)
they are shown as part of the carb kit, or in a gasket set only
has anyone tried ordering/purchasing/looking thru the plastic of this kit to see if they would work? I would say any carb kit for the F4 might do the trick
longshot, all I can think of
I don't know if that linkage part and its dimensions are the same on all YFs

 

Have you thought about making this seal/gasket? Cut the slot with an X-Acto knife, then cut the outside with scissors. Here's the MSC page with Buna N sheets: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=1804

 

Pretty much. 1V intake will work too, but is less desirable. The 1V intake requires an adapter for either the MC 2100 or the Weber; teh Weber will go directly onto the 2V manifold.

Check this thread: http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13783

 

I finally tracked down the part in a drawer full of ten thousand little parts at a local 4X4 shop. I'm going to try it out tomorrow.

 

It's fixed!

To anybody who has had the same leaky YF problem. Here's the fix. It is a small (5/8X1/4) rectangular metal tab with rolled down edges and a slot for the acc lift bar. It has rounded corners and one is angled off. You also need the same size and shape flat rubber washers. It fits on the top of the acc lift bar where it comes out of the casting right next to the bowl. I don't know how else to describe it and I can't post pictures. Some old carb books show the part others don't. It was so simple and the part cost me nothing. Just took forever to figure it out.