Lincoln Locker

should be dana 27 (10 spline ends). HOWEVER could also be a 25, or 30. check the lower right web for casting numbers. (25, 27, 27a, 30....)

 

I wouldn't weld the front, dana 27 shafts just ain't up to it. If you have the rear welded by someone who knows what they're doing you shouldn't have any trouble with it. If you had 30 spline rear axles you could get a mini-spool for less than $100. Cheapest lockers are going to be loc-rites, about $250 a piece, but you can install them without disturbing your R/P set-up. Hope this helps

 

I ran a lock-rite and spun it, so I welded it. It now is much more solid no moving parts to break, don,t weld the front though having a 100 percent locled front will make it #e!! to steer.

 

O.K. Welding the rear is asking for trouble, unless you trailer your rig on pavement. I like to drive to and from the trails, thats why welding the front and then only having the frony hubs locked when off road, keeping the drivability, but adding to trail ability. A welded rear axle and any pavement driving for any length of time is asking for more than broken axles, but could easliy become very dangerous when it comes apart while driving at higher road speeds.I hope my humble advice helps.

 

I don't see any good reason for spools or welded diffs on the trail. Especially in older Jeeps. Something will break. It's just a matter of time. It's better to improve your driving skills on the trails. I've done the Rubicon with open diffs, although it's getting more difficult to do that, and I'm setup better now. I personally don't care for locked frontends either. With a LS there is somewhere for the excess torque to go and be released rather than by breaking a U joint or axle. I'm fortunate to live near the Rubicon and Fordyce and run them both numerous times in the summer without any carnage so far. I'm also fortunate enough to have been wheeling for about 20 years in the Sierras and I believe the most important traction adding device is the guy sitting in the drivers seat. Just my .02 though. I could be wrong.

 

I agree, but I like to stack the odds in my favor. I live on the oregon coast about 5 miles from the sand dunes Driving skills play a big part here too, but open differentials equal alot of backing down the big sand hills.

 

My dana 41 survived 4 years of a welded rear and up to 35" tires on and off-road. The axle shafts had a 1/4 twist in them when I finally replaced it with a 35 spline dana 60 which is also lincoln locked.

Go for it!

 

I posted a poll to get everyone's opinion of the matter...

Thank ya'll!

NitroSteel

 

I have a welded dana 27. I read a few of the replys about better streetability that way. I run 31s and plan on going to 33s, if you have stock steering, plan on going to a power setup or having arms that look like popeyes.

I've only had mine in the sand that way and it fought me every turn.

If you want a 27 with 3.73's already locked I'll trade you for one that isn't.

Rio
P.S. I vote no

 

Ya know I believe the general idea here, is do whatever you want, We all have opinions and they are all different, Of course mine is the only one that is right, JUST KIDDING YA'LL. Do whatever you want, thats what makes it your jeep, not mine. Have fun whichever you decide

 

I welded my dana 44,no problems,I just make wider turns to keep some stress off

 

So I've been reading through this thread (I think I'll do LS on mine) and was trying to figure out why they called it Lincoln locker. Figured the first guy to do it was named Lincoln..........now I get itR)

 

I would spend money first on a really good winch, and next on sufficient tires. If you have traction, lockers won't get you very much farther than open diffs (which I constantly prove to myself), and frankly, in 35 years of driving off-road, I have yet to break driveline parts while the diffs were open.[/QUOTE]

Exelent advice I too get carried away with thinking I have to have them but you are so right.

I have been wheeling for over 30 years starting with my dad and he always used a 2 wheel chevy with a locker and a granny tranny,and he very rarely need to winch it.

You changed my mine on a front locks right I dont really need it.
Thanks.

 

personally I feel that if you are going to do this on the rear of your vehicle and it has a D44 with 30 spline axles you should just get a mini spool for about 75 bucks shipped to your door, then the cost of some diff fluid, some RTV, and a case of PBR and it is in. that way if you dont like it you can put the spiders back. or possibly even run the spool in the summer and on trails and put your spiders back for the winter.

If you cant find a mini spool then you could put in a lockright instead. the install process is the same more or less and if you get lucky you can find them used on jeep forums. i got the LR for my D30 front used for helping a guy put a rubi axle under the front of his jeep and giving him a bottle of spiced rum.

 

Okay...My 2 cents..

There is only one reason you would weld a rear. PRICE! And we welded the rears in Stock cars for years, and they seemed to hold up to moderate horsepower.

I run a 67CJ5 with 33x12.5 on a Welded 19 spl Dana 44. (Front open). I drive it both street and trails here in NC. I do run 35 psi on the street to relieve some of the stress.
My experience with our group is you need the locked rear on the rocks. And Mud! Especially with an early Leaf Suspension's propensity for carrying a wheel! But a careful pick of your line elsewhere will generally get you through with an open rear, as long as its a mostly dry trail.

Breakages? Yep everything is going to break eventually, welded, locker, or open. Its the nature of what we do! LOL!:driving: