67 Dauntless Bogging

I have a 67 that I bought about a year ago with a 225 V6 and 2G carb that is bogging down when I give it much gas. It will die if I keep the accelerator pressed but will rev up if I gradually give it gas. Here's the history:

1. Jeep wouldn't run when I bought it so I installed new fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs and wires with an oil change and it would then run but still had a slight bog.
2. I noticed the accelerator pump wasn't working so I did a full rebuild on the carb. Pump still didn't work and I finally realized the previous owner left the check ball out of the pump and once I installed a new one it started working.
3. I drove it down the road and it was 99% perfect without even adjusting timing or idle mixture. I then did a seafoam treatment through the PCV valve to clean the top end and drove it hard for a couple miles. It started bogging and sputtering after the seafoam and I've never gotten it to run right again.
4. I adjusted the timing to 5 degrees at idle with vacuum advance line disconnected and plugged and adjusted the idle mixture.

A few other observations / questions:

1. I tried putting a manifold vacuum line on the distributor and I could hear it hissing which made me think it might need a new one. Could this cause the problem? I don't hear the hissing normally but that's because I have it connected to the ported vacuum under the fuel inlet which isn't supposed to have much vacuum at idle.
2. The front right carb bolt was nearly stripped out but held ok when I removed the washer, giving it more threads. I just now checked and it was loose again so I put a slightly bigger bolt in that seemed to bite. I know I need to put a heli-coil in but this is a temp fix. Could this cause the problem?
3. Could the seafoam treatment have ruined the pcv valve and causing the issue? I've checked for other vacuum leaks and can't find anything.

Anything else I should check?

 

It is working... see #2 above.

 

Opening throttle quickly vs slowly would indicate incorrect air/fuel off idle, and maybe worn advance springs. Forget initial timing and set it to 36* total at 2500 rpm with vac advance plugged.
I'd recommend fixing the potential vacuum leaks, replace vac advance unit and bolt. Do not over tighten and make sure the gasket is clean and not torn.
Have you pulled plugs to see if it's running rich? I'd check the plugs to see if they are carbon-ed. If they are lean it out by turning each needle in 1/4 turn and try again, if it still bogs lean it some more, keep doing this until it no longer bogs. Do you know the initial setting (i.e. seat and then turn each out 1 1/4 turn?
These carbs can easily have the idle mixture set too rich (especially if set by vac gauge). If rich, fuel at idle puddles in the intake and when you pull off idle the extra pooled fuel basically floods the motor with the other extra fuel added by accel pump and off idle circuit.
This is a first shot. There are a lot of other things that can be causing, start with dwell and set timing (changing dwell changes timing), and richness at idle.

 

did you remove and check the power valve
in bottom of bowl

 

Thank you for the help. I did adjust idle mixture but it didn't help. I tried every setting from 1 turn out to 4 turns out and it doesn't make a difference.

I replaced pcv valve and vacuum advance yesterday and it made no difference.

 

I removed and soaked it in cleaner during the rebuild. Is there a test procedure for it? I just made sure the pin moved.

 

I keep trying to focus on what could have changed when I did the seafoam treatment through the pcv and then running it hard. It ran almost perfect before then started the issue right after.

 

I can only add some information from mikes
I agree with focker . something must have plugged up a passage . or a check ball
Rochester 2G 2GC 2GV Technical

 

Have you double checked all vacuum lines around carb, and even heater control?
Have you tried moving vac advance back to ported? Is there a vac pot choke pull-off on a 67? If so check that too.
From your description I can't imagine sea foam treatment of upper end would change anything in the carb.
Have you tried spraying starter fluid or carb cleaner around base of carb, vac lines and along intake gasket lines (heads, block and carb) to help locate vacuum leak?
Lastly (again) double check all the vac lines associated with the carb. My experience is that vac creates most af ratio issues that create bog.
Once you get by that then start checking carb (have access to one you can swap to try?), distributor or timing (chain).

 

I'd check the accelerator pump diaphragm again. The only good ones I have seen anymore have been from Quadrajetparts.com. With todays fuel, after sitting for a few months the accelerator pump well gets gummy or sticky from fuel residue, causing tearing of even a good replacement diaphragm. Polish the well with rubbing compound and install a new, quality diaphragm. I would also check the vacuum advance on the distributor and the line going to it. Good luck!

 

Also be sure to use the correct check ball in correct place. There are different ones

 

Got it fixed! In a hurry now but I'll update you on the fix later. Thanks everyone!!!

 

Finally got a spare minute to give an update. When I bought my rebuild kit from Mike's, the accelerator pump in the kit was just slightly shorter than the one in the carb. I measured the existing pump and ordered the correct size. I did notice the next one that arrived had a spring in the seal cup and looked a little different but it was the right size and I could see fuel going into the carb when I hit the throttle so I concluded it was good.

After pulling the top off the carb again and double checking the power piston / valve, check ball, etc., I finally decided to try the pump that came in the kit and it worked much better than the original or kit pump when I just manually pushed it down (much stronger jet of fuel). I was still skeptical since I was worried the shorter pump might not work with it all hooked up again. Got it all back together and the bogging is gone! I guess the slightly different design of the new pump I bought didn't allow a good seal in the pump cylinder. Just to be clear, it also did not have a check ball below the pump even though it should so there were actually two causes of my original bogging. Once I put the check ball in, I could see the gas coming out but it clearly wasn't enough.

Thanks for everybody's help!