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Brake Master Cylinder

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by ShBone, Sep 4, 2016.

  1. Sep 4, 2016
    ShBone

    ShBone New Member

    Hollister, MO
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    I have a 67 cj5. And am working on the brakes, I know the master cylinder has problems because if I pump up the brakes and hold the pedal it just slowly sinks to the floor. Is there a rebuild kit for this particular MC or am I just forced to buy a new one? I looked on walcks and all he has is a rebuild kit for the pre 66 MC
     
  2. Sep 4, 2016
    ShBone

    ShBone New Member

    Hollister, MO
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    Also while I'm on the topic, I am going to replace my brake light switch at the same time while I already have to system open, I have seen a lot of people mention their brake switch is attached to the MC, mine isn't, on the inside of the frame rail, about middle of the jeep, there is a secondary connection thing and it has the brake switch attached to it, I'm not sure what that part is. I can take a picture and post later if that will help.
     
  3. Sep 4, 2016
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    If you are talking about the dual master, under floor, Crown has a fairly close replacement, but it is pricey. I put one on mine last year, so far no problems. I'm not aware of a rebuild kit but mine was pitted too much so it was not an option anyway.

    Master Brake Cylinder (dual reservoir) Fits 66-73 CJ-5 with 10
     
  4. Sep 4, 2016
    ShBone

    ShBone New Member

    Hollister, MO
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    Yes that is the one I am talking about, I know walcks has a replacement for 115. I think im just going to replace, it doesn't have a lot of rust and I'm afraid it won't seal right anyway and contaminate the system. Really don't want to spend the money, but I'd rather do that than the brakes not work when I go to use them
     
  5. Sep 4, 2016
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Last edited: Sep 4, 2016
  6. Sep 4, 2016
    ShBone

    ShBone New Member

    Hollister, MO
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    Thank you for that link. That's exactly what I need. I'm not sure I understand why you need two brake light switches... I know that may seem stupid, but not really familiar with them.
     
  7. Sep 4, 2016
    Twin2

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    I guess the reason factory put two switches is they are wired parallel . if one switch quit working the other would still turn on brake lights . say you lost front or rear brakes you would still have a brake light
     
  8. Sep 5, 2016
    Oldriginal86

    Oldriginal86 Member

    Pasadena, Md.
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    If the system lost pressure in one section the brake lights would work off the working pressurized side. When I rework the brake system on my jeep, I'm going to incorporate a switch that works off the pedal like a new car.
     
  9. Sep 5, 2016
    Chilly

    Chilly Active Member

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    Figured to replace my 73 MC with a reman. I checked over the reman before leaving the store and the threads for brake lines had been shot blasted to ruination. Asked them to pull another, same issue. I bought a rebuild kit and fixed what I had.

    I may take back apart and treat in Evaporust the coat outside with epoxy primer and see how it handles brake fluid. I dont like the rust.
     
  10. Sep 5, 2016
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Comment to Chilly - A brand new Raybestos cylinder is only ca $40. More Information for RAYBESTOS MC36237 Raybestos is a respected brand, but its part is probably imported and sold under their name. Dorman and Centric also offer this part new, for a little less. The Centric brake parts I've bought have been imported stuff, but fine. I have not had good luck with rebuilt or remanufactured brake cylinders, whether it's my own work or a factory's.

    (Ehem... Aluthane Aluthane MCU rust corrosion auto restoration coating 603-435-7199 has excellent chemical resistance, and should withstand some contact with brake fluid).
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2016
  11. Sep 5, 2016
    Chilly

    Chilly Active Member

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    Tim, thats wheel cylinder price? I was referring to my master cylinder.
     
  12. Sep 5, 2016
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Nope. Master cylinder. New wheel cylinders for 11" Bendix brakes are about $5 each.
     
  13. Sep 5, 2016
    1967 CJ5A

    1967 CJ5A Mike 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I recently purchased the dorman version of what Tim posted. The outlets were too large, and I had to modify my original push rod retainer to make it fit. And of course the top is not the original bolt on type. Kind of a pain but you can make it work.
     
  14. Sep 5, 2016
    Chilly

    Chilly Active Member

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    Huh. I was making a lot less money back then. I guess that will have to be my excuse.
     
  15. Sep 5, 2016
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    The part I linked to is right for 1972-1975. The bail is right for those years. My only concern would be there is no separate listing for a manual or power brake cylinder. The part may have some accommodation for both, but they are different from Jeep.
     
  16. Sep 10, 2016
    ShBone

    ShBone New Member

    Hollister, MO
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    Here is a picture of what the rear brake switch is attached to. Is there someone that could send a picture of the front brake switch so I can see how it goes on?
     

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  17. Sep 11, 2016
    jeep2003

    jeep2003 Well-Known Member

    Upstate NY
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    For some reason the 67 ones are expensive i searched by year went with one from a newer jeep like 72 or so and it worked fine. Took a little adapting with the push rod and lines but it was like 40$ or so
     
  18. Sep 11, 2016
    ShBone

    ShBone New Member

    Hollister, MO
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    The cheapest I've found is like 110 from amazon.. if other years will work and area little cheaper than that, I certainly wouldn't mind doing a little adapting as long as it will work right in the long run.
     
  19. Sep 11, 2016
    Alan F

    Alan F Sponsor

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    I just replaced the entire brake system on my '67. I replaced every piece except for the distribution block. There was only 1 brake light switch on the lines going to the rear.
    I used the master cylinder in the first link above and had a little trouble with it leaking out of the bushings. I was able to tighten them down and eliminate the leak but found it strange to have to do so.
     
  20. Sep 11, 2016
    ShBone

    ShBone New Member

    Hollister, MO
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    I figured while I'm in there, I'll go ahead and replace all the lines, fittings, rubber hoses, and wheel cylinders, with the rust that's in the MC I would bet there is rust elsewhere in the system. I have yet to pull a drum off to see what shape the shoes are in, though, as I need to get a hub puller to pull the rears.
     
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