Fiberglass tub install... suggestions

I am finally to the stage of test fitting the 4wd tub to the chassis. The install kit I purchased from 4wd says for 1976+. After comparing frames there's very limited amount of material I can use without mod to the frame or chassis.

Fiberglass Body Mounting Kit

The horizontal L plates are supposed to go on the mount pads of the frame and accommodate 3 mounts each side rather than the 2 factory. Unfortunately the '64 is asymmetrical with 2 on 1 side and 1 on the other. I am toying with the idea of buying/making an additional 1 to make the frame symmetrical.

I have no idea how to cut the roll rubber for use. My reading indicates a hand or power saw with mixed results for the accuracy of the cuts.

The brackets and strip metal are ok I think for vertical brackets and fender reinforcement. 8 of the bolts are REAL long so I can just cut them off if there's too much material.

I see a possible 10 mounting points for the tub to mount; 3 each side of mid frame and 4 in the rear area. 2 mount points out of frame 2 along rear cross member.

Did all cj5 frames come with the diagonal braces in the rear section of the tub? Mine doesn't have them and I don't recall what the rear hitch brace bolted to? It made a sandwich of the body by a bracket on the inside and the hitch on the out.

Is there an easy and accurate way to cut the roll rubber or should I go with body pucks and shims?? Is 10 mount points excessive?

Any suggestions on what to work from for squaring the body on the frame? I started at the grill and assembled backward with the tailgate ending essentially even rear bumper. I'm not exactly sure what to measure from and to for placement to start the hole drilling.

Thanks guys..

Rich

 

I ordered NHL regulation hockey pucks from Dick's sporting goods today. A 12 pack of A&R pucks was $20. I bought a set of energy poly mounts but read to avoid them due to crack issues.

It looks like I'm stuck with the kit... I bought it ~1 year ago.

What did you measure from/to for placement? The front is "captured" by the grill mount The back should sit against the hitch and over the bumper. Maybe from frame to outer tube side on each side and center it for the back? On the front just center the bolt in the hole?

I have read some people put a thin rubber strip between tub and fender mount and a metal strip for the bolts to pass through on the fender side. Are these necessary or just precautionary?

My factory tub had 8 vertical mounting points excluding the grill. I will use button head socket bolts grade 8 3/8" diameter. When I pulled the tub I thought someone had improvised cushions since I found a slew of what I thought were conveyor belt pieces and a wood block. I have since been educated that these were probably the original style mounts.

My frame doesn't have the diagonals to the plate above the rear bumper where the hitch bolts pass through and sandwiches the rear bulkhead of the tub. My frame is completely open. A PO has installed a rear tank from a later model. I don't see what the tank is supposed to press against... the bottom of the tub maybe?

Like the diagonals and rear plate in the following photo:
http://www.ewillys.com/wp-content/uploads2/2010/04/tire-carrier3.jpg

Or Post 10... I have no part D:
error in early CJ5/6 frame diagram?

Actually I haven't seen any other early cj with this style frame...

 

I got caught in that mounting the tub first issue. Alway mount the grill and fenders first. Then fit the tub to them. I have a couple extra hole because of that.

 

I use a metal chop saw to cut the rubber. bonus it smells like the dragway

 

I found some boat rollers made of hard rubber. They also come in a clear. Holes already drilled and just need to be cut to length...I also used a chop saw. Cut them very straight and very fast.

 

I used a chop saw to cut the roll rubber. I stuck a dowel in the hole so my fingers were away from the blade. I also used some pieces of boat roller that I had around. It seemed to be a better product.

I started my measurements from the grill mount. I used an old steel hood and grill. I could not get the fiberglass hood to fit right. Besides I like the feel of an old hood. The hardest part was lining up the fenders to the right elevation in relation to the hood and grill.

I painted the body and have one regret. I wish i had shot a gloss guide coat because the surfaces were wavy. Had I have seen it beforehand I could have used a filler to level the surfaces. I have no idea what brand the body is. I bought from a buddy who had it in his barn for years and he bought from someone who didn't finish the project.