Just Got Myself Into A 6...

I put mine where it would be located in a CJ-5 in regards to distance from the front seats. There's a little extra room there than in a 5 because there aren't fenderwells there in a 6. Works well enough I can get my fridge behind the seat, a couple jugs of various fluids, and a small ammo can of tools behind it.

 

I am having the same dilemma. On my CJ-6 (1974), as I'm sure was the same with yours....the factory quick release rear seat was set exactly as if it was in a CJ-5. Given the extra 20 inches being added in the middle, in front of the fenderwells, this placed the rear seat right up against the tailgate. Great for rear passengers and leg room, poor for storage. When I get it put back together, I was actually thinking of acquiring or fab'ing up another set of quick release brackets that way I can mount the seat in either location, or remove it entirely, giving me options.

 

The seat will be removable.. I didn't build a 6 to not have "that" much room for gear...
but for road miles, weekend trips and just looking good the rear seat rounds it out..
was beginning to look very empty back there.

I scoped out the tub at lunch today and I have the possibility of putting the front bolts directly into one of the aluminum 2x4 floor supports...

 

That's actually exactly what I did. I put another set of mounts forward and used the old forward mounts for the back of the seat. I can put it in both locations, either all the way back or in the middle. The only issue is seat belts. You either need two sets or have to move them too which isn't as quick as just moving the seat. Not sure how safe it would be to mount belts to the seat frame.

 

How about modifying a Chevy truck hump. Had to move one today while looking for parts. These pictures won't help much since the tub is upside down, but it helps to show the size.


I might cut one up when I finally get to see how the T19 fits in my floor.

 

not a bad idea...
can you throw a tape on it? width is more important the length at this point...

 

Sure, inside to inside it is 13 1/4". Outside edge of flange to outside edge of flange it is 16 1/8". From where it turns up to the back (floor surface) is about 18". It is about four inches deep. I can send you one if you want to play with it. I have two.

 

thanks appreciate it...
if I get some time in the garage this weekend I might have some updates to this...
seems the "KISS" methodology always proves true...

might have been staring at the answer all this time..

 

Got around to the shifters this past weekend...
Made an aluminum patch panel to cover some of the wonky holes around the Tcase. Temporarily held in place by some self-tappers... I will be using Aluminum rivets once the panel is coated in the floor covering.
New sticks, knobs, HD rubber boot... very pleased with the way it looks

Transmission is another story... I tried to get off easy by finding “something” to make a superstructure... Ended up with an aluminum electronic chassis off of amazon... fit is very nice, but looks to balky and angular... Going to have to get something custom made here... steel or aluminum doesn’t matter.

 

I think the transmission cover looks pretty good

 

Life has been a little busy lately, but had a lot of thinking time.
possibly ended up with a shifter solution.. more to come when finished...

 

had some good wrench time this weekend..
managed to accomplish most of my check list, also managed to create an upgrade project..

500 Miles and 2 hrs. of light wheeling my rubber body mounts are compressing already.
Didn't notice until yesterday after the cross member was back in.
The body tub was slightly hitting the tops of the transmission and some of my clearances were about .25" to tight..

did some research and the body mounting rubber I used is the same PN as used for fiberglass bodies.. doing some reading I found the durometer for these mounts to be 45A-50A...
Typical poly mounts are normally 80A-90A on whatever scale is used..
Found some 90A poly rod on Amazon and it should be here tomorrow..

couple of thoughts need feeback with..
Should I cut the new poly bushing a bit taller to accommodate some settling?
or.. since my sliders will be tied into the cage through the floor, should get some more support and rigidity?

the body mount that was the most compressed was the passenger by the firewall.. (no surprise there) it is however very close in relation to where the cage floor plate is.. The rear mounts, comparatively, were just settling in..

Side note...
picked up some machined dash knobs.. now they all match and bye bye nasty plastic ones..

 

Had a body mount issue.. noticed this ironically while I was measuring the trans tunnel cover..
It managed to create an upgrade project..

500 Miles and 2 hrs. of light wheeling my rubber body mounts are compressing already.
Didn't notice until yesterday after the cross member was back in.
The body tub was slightly hitting the tops of the transmission and some of my clearances were about .25" to tight..

did some research and the body mounting rubber I used is the same PN as used for fiberglass bodies.. doing some reading I found the durometer for these mounts to be 45A-50A...
Typical poly mounts are normally 80A-90A on whatever scale is used..
Found some 90A poly rod on Amazon.

Side note...
picked up some machined dash knobs.. now they all match and bye bye nasty plastic ones..










Trans tunnel cover solved..
will probably be able to use stock ring and stock shifter boot.
Need to work on the visual appearance of the T case patch plate and do some minor trimming.
Both will be sprayed in matching floor liner..




Sliders tied into A and B pillar floor plates.. an additional frame support was added for the rear mount.
Overall these sliders were really nothing more than a good starting point.. I would not recommend them for a bolt on application.
Got the sanded down last night and in self etch primer. I decided on body color for these, will making touching up easier.. Its also easier to galvanize over paint than vise versa

 

Nice Job on the Rocker / Sliders ...........Looking at your photo's I'm wondering if the direct mounted uprights from the sliders to the body above for the cage will cancel any softening or suspension effect that might have been present from the rubber body mounts alongside?............Perhaps I'm missing something?

And the Polyurethane body mounts at least from Energy Suspension have about a 90% memory factor.

 

Awesome progress...

If it's been asked before, I apologize... where'd you find the knobs for your transfer case?

 

I was thinking along the same lines...
Ran the entire summer without sliders.. and these aqualu tubs are stiff!! the frame flexed, body didn't causing the squish factor..
the tie ins should eliminate extreme chassis flex..

I think the Tcase knobs are Advance Adapter... but JB Fabrication made the shifters and makes really nice knobs as well. (my transmission shifter knob)

 

I think the fixed uprights for the cage are cancelling any cushion effect you might get from the poly mounts.........Might want to think about putting another Polyurethane Puck / body mount of the same thickness between the fixed cage upright and the body........It will not hurt that cage to be suspended on 90% memory pucks..........that way the body and cage can move in the same suspended moment and get you a better ride.

 

I agree.. its almost like i have a solid mounted body..

So I actually thought about this, depending on how the ride really is...
I saw they had rectangular sheets of this material and I could replace the conveyor belt insulator (between footplate and floor) for a 1/2"- 3/4" of this stuff.. I would want to get the hardtop on at that point and check height.

I have suspension seats, so the noticeable difference might not be worth the effort...

 

Unfortunately for it to work correctly........you would have to modify / shorten those up-rights on your sliders to accept the same thickness Polyurethane body mount and type you now currently have. It can be done , but it may take a little time to figure out the best method to capture the Poly mount at the slider..............

This again would allow the body and cage that's mounted through the body to work in the same moment and in direct concert with the rest of the mounts on the body...........basically you want the body and cage to float on the mounts in this type of install. Since the two mounts are so close together you may also have the option of just using the outboard mount on the slider as opposed to both? But that would be better decided there.

Anything short of that and your aluminum body would suffer and may break at the attachment points if all the mounts are not working together.............Overall inclusive of your suspension seats the ride will improve , and your nice aluminum body will be much happier.

 

I looked at buying some polyurethane rod for body mounts too. I was going to cut them on my lathe and all that. 90A euro or so too. I went with a cj5 set because they were 22 bucks shipped. I liked the idea of making the custom thickness with the rod. I had also considered cutting some skateboard wheels too.