62 cj5 steering column removal help!

So I'm removing the steering column from my 62 cj5 and hit a bit of a rough spot. I've removed the steering column to gear shaft coupling and the dash mount as well as the steering column cover as the Chilton manual says (wonderful book by the way, I highly recommend it if you have a lopsided table that needs leveling...) and yet the stupid thing will not come loose. Is there any other way that the column is attached to the steering box?

I've read elsewhere that its just very tight but I don't want to start wrenching on things and break something...

 

Just have to remove steering wheel, clamp at dash and the c shaped clamp right at the box. That's it

 

Well, I've done all that, so time to start giving it a good pull!

 

Is your goal to remove the whole steering box right now or only the outer beauty tube that covers the shaft all the way up to the steering wheel

 

I just want to remove the column so that I can replace it with an Ididit universal tilt, not the beauty tube...

 

Being technical, I want to remove the worm shaft so I can replace the entire steering column to put in a tilt unit.

 

That inside tube ( worm shaft ) that connects from the splined hub at the steering wheel to the worm gear inside the steering gear is all one piece. That will have to be cut off as it extends outside the box at a length great enough so your new column can connect to it. Most times your column will have a Double D shaft that extends towards the floor and firewall........if your re-using the old Ross gear you will have to figure out how you want to make the connection between the old to new........A U-joint is probably the best option although the size of the tube coming out of the gear box is an odd size. If you ever thought you may want to change over to a Saginaw gear box now would be the time to consider that once again.

 

Pictures would help here...sounds like your Jeep has been converted to a different steering box and column already.

 

Tarry is correct, and I'm an idiot that doesn't know how to do his research! In order to do the upgrade I want I'm going to have to either cut the worm shaft and install a u joint (not a great proposition considering that the shaft is perfectly round) or pull the whole steering box and replace it with something else (also not a great proposition considering I have the stock Hurricane engine which is going to make this a nightmare project!).

All this cause I'm too fat to fit behind the wheel!

 

Don't be so hard on yourself Bud!...............This can all be done with a new column but you will have to cut that stub off from the Steering gear as I mentioned above..............again not a big deal but first make sure you have the layout length correct before cutting while also having the correct connection ( U-Joint ) in your hand.

As I mentioned from old memory I believe the OD of that shaft coming out of the gear box is an odd size. Measure it when you have a chance. You can get U-Joints in many sizes and configurations from side to side. What you'll need is a Double D to a Round ID Joint.........If I remember correctly I took that stub shaft out of the gear box with the worm attached cut it to length and then chucked it up in the lathe and cut the OD down to fit the joint I had at the time..............That was a long time ago...........measure the OD of that shaft and maybe someone makes one now? I just don't know...............but either way your project can be completed................One last thing, go for the aftermarket column that fits the old fixture clamp size in your dash. They make two different OD sizes in those aftermarket columns............

 

So here's a question... considering that the worm shaft is round and smooth, is there any risk in attaching a smooth bore U joint with it losing connection? It looks like the recommended procedure is to cut a dimple into the shaft for the tightening the set screw. Considering the torque on the shaft that seems like a lot of weight on a pretty small connection. I know reading up on it that welding is somewhat of a maligned idea when it comes to U joints as the heat and electrical feedback through the joint can jack up the joint.

 

Not sure what you mean by "with it losing connection"??????.

I just went out in the shop and dug out an old steering column shaft.............this should be the same size in diameter as yours is now.

The uncut OD on the left is .884 the ID of the tube is .5625. / that is a wall thickness of about .161 thousands. The .884 OD dimension of the un-cut shaft is as I thought an odd size. You should again measure what you have.

In the picture you'll see what I did to compensate for that odd size.........I cut the shaft down on the lathe to .8705 which is just a few thousands under 7/8" ( .875 ) so that a standard sized U-joint could be used. At the time I also cut a key-way in the shaft to locate it on the U-joint............Keep in mind this was done many years ago when the only small u-joints you could find other than aircraft were PTO type u-joints that were keyed in place and much more bulky than there more modern counterparts that are available today.

This was also done to the opposite end as you need it to be done as I was changing over to use a Saginaw gear box but still using the old column.

The method they use now with two or more set screws in the joint is obviously strong enough to do the job.............Personally , If possible I still like a key or through bolt like a Grade 8 #10 or 1/4" through the shaft which puts the connection on double shear...........but the folks that make this stuff now say the set screw method is stronger. Having said that I'm sure there Insurance carriers and engineers have done all the due-diligence testing so I will not question there findings.

 

Well, pulling out the ol calipers I measured it at .886 inches... and terry, you are right, that is a weird size! +1 to the folks at Ididit, I called them and talked to one of their reps and they were really helpful in helping me figure this out. Looks like I'll have to take some advice here and pull the worm shaft and have some machining done on it. Not too happy about that as I wanted to do all the work myself but I don't have the tools to machine down a shaft like this... Well that, and I'm lazy and was trying to avoid pulling the entire steering box to complete this project!