What's the best approach to starting long-dormant F4 134 CJ5 (under restoration)?

Here's where I need help, Folks. My restoration project on my '66 CJ-5 is at the place where I'm ready for ignition. Over the summer, I put in a new tank, took the carburetor apart and cleaned it (no gunk inside; was okay), cleaned inside the fuel pump (did not remove from block), blew out fuel lines, and some other clean-up misc (plugs, ignition wires). I have a new battery (and changed the oil) and the engine cranks great (I'm real pleased at that). Last nite I put 1.5 gal 89-octane gasoline into the new tank. I cranked several times, but then stopped before asking here about how best to approach this re-start.

My questions: should I push on the accelerator and crank? should I pull full-choke for as long as it take to start engine; or maybe half-choke? Pump the accelerator?? How long should I expect it to take to get fuel into the carb bowl (dozens of five-second cranks?, for example), and before I start taking things apart again (like the carb). I'm assuming the glass-bowl type fuel pump is working/pumping. Should I expect some fits-and-starts and sputtering first, having to adjust the carb, or just a sudden vroooooom into idle speed?

I don't know what to expect for starting from a tank feeding into dry lines, fuel pump, carb, etc., and after having cleaned interior of carb.

I don't want to mess this up... burn up starter perhaps... so if any of you have suggestions for the best approach and for how long I should crank before I feel it's time to give it up and start troubleshooting electrical/fuel systems, please pass your suggestions along.

-- many thanks, ronnie

 

If you have the timing set.

Another way to do it would be to go ahead and spin the engine for 10 seconds. To get oil flowing.

Then dump a cap full of Sea Foam down the throat of the carb, push the gas pedal down and set the choke to half-way, then start it. (pushing the pedal releases tension on the choke linkage) No Sea Foam? Then a cap full of gas. Doesn't take much. Not any more than a shot glass full.

 

I usually give it full choke while cranking. When it fires, immediately hold the gas pedal down slightly and go to half-choke.

 

Mine had been sitting for over five years, so the first thing I did was pull the plugs and put some Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder. It felt like the rings had partially "cold-welded" themselves to the cylinder walls. Once I had gently broken the rings loose, I cranked it by hand to work some of oil onto the cylinder walls, and to get some oil flowing into the oil lines from the engine pump. I also pulled the valve cover and poured some oil over the valve train, since this is one of the last things to get oil in the scheme of flow.

I checked the plugs for spark and had none. Turns out that the spring steel piece in the center of the rotor had broken off and so there was no contact to the coil wire from the distributor. I got a new rotor, distributor cap, points and condenser, along with new plugs and plug wires, since the resistance was quite high on them. Once I had these installed, I checked once again for spark and had a healthy one.

I got a can of starter fluid, just to make sure it would fire and it did, but still would not continue to run. Turns out my fuel pump was bad. So I got one of those and put it in. Just to make sure it was working, I disconnected the fuel line between it and the carb and put some clear Tigon tubing in its place. I also used a gas can and put Tigon tubing between the can and the inlet of the fuel pump so I could determine if it was pumping as it should. I hit the key a few times and it fired off, ran like a top and still does. I hope you have the same outcome.

 

Thanks, Everyone, for your help and suggestions. Since I first wrote, I learned that my fuel pump is probably out. No gas in the glass bowl of the pump was the first clue. I disconnected the fuel line to the pump from the tank, and no drops of gasoline appeared. It's a new tank, so that is suspicious in itself. I put a hand-held vacuum pump to the line and in seconds I had gasoline filling the canister on the vacuum pump -- so gasoline comes from the tank, but I think it needed coaxing. Curiously, small black grains of debris were in the vacuum pump canister. settling from the gasoline withdrew.....apparently coming from debris in the line or the new tank (not good in either case).

Looks like a pain to get at the two bolts holding the fuel pump to engine, so before removing the pump in prep for buying a new pump, I think I'll put a hose from pump inlet into a small can of gasoline and then crank the engine to see for certain whether the fuel pump draws in any gasoline. (this restoration project is full of obstacles....underway now about three months, and not even close to having a road-worthy cj5 -- ronnie

 

It sounds like you are going in a logical direction. Change out all of your rubber lines to something that are rated for Ethenol. It's possible that your fuel pump is still OK but one of the valves is being held open by some junk from a fuel line and, yes, possibly some crap in a new fuel tank. Soldier on. I think all of us are still learning about Jeeps.

 

X2 on that--when people can't get these motors started they just crank and crank. Had a few you swear oil was half gas. I buy that cheap tsc fleet stuff and swap oil a few times when bringing something back to life--one to try and start then again after I do and it runs enough to warm then a final.

Final I usually run shell rotella. Diesel stuff. Has good friction stuff in it

 

If you have the spark at the spark plug, it is good... I used to take a spark plug out and put some drops of gas in the hole, then put back the spark plug.

Of course there are many better ways to do, but the ida was to launch the engine at first action on the starter, and hear what happens.

You must have some gas in the carb too.

I tar the choke full and as soon as it starts, I push it half or more according to what I hear.

If your engine starts it will tear the gas and all will be working.

I have a manual control (hand throttle) on the carb so I can put more idle. Then it must heat slowly.

If you have debris etc you will see it rapidly! Then you clean, or maybe you can change the lines and fuel pump before if you prefer.

This engine is easy to control so it should work one day or an other!