Pre 71 floorpans

I just picked up a pre71 v6 cj5. I believe it's pre 70 as it has no side marker lights. But that's not really important.

Frame and drivetrain appear good. Starter is fubar so not yet been able to start it. The tub has many many issues. It's too far gone for a proper fixing but not bad enough for scrap. And as this is a trail jeep I'll just be doing a lot of patchwork---which leads me to my question/request......

Has anyone ever made patterns of floorpans? I'm sure someone here has but do you still have them?
Or has someone bought a set and would you be willing to help out by making a pattern? I know you can get a set for a 100 bucks on eBay but this is a no budget build. I'm going to cut patches out of whatever I have around--parts jeeps mustangs etc. lol

Thanks

 

For my 1964 I had a fab shop bend some 12 gauge diamond tread up for my floor boards. Have not tried to fit them yet but I measured from the firewall to the bend at the bottom of the foot board, then measured from the bend at the bottom of the foot board to the riser and added 1" to that measurement to have somewhere to attach the riser. then I measured the widest part from the transmission hump to the rocker panel and added 3/4" for a mounting flange.

Had them bend the sheet 50 degrees at the bottom of the foot board (my floors are sketchy enough I'm not sure if that is correct but, figure I can use the cut off wheel to relieve the back enough to adjust it then fill back in with the welder) and 90 degrees at the tub sides.

If I can find my receipt I'll post what it cost me, total bill that day was $270, and included the 18 gauge I had cut and bent for body patch panels, 1"x3"x12'and 1"x2"x10' 14 gauge tubing for my replacement hat channels, and some 1.75"x1.25" DOM tubing for rear shackle mounts, As I have not tried to mount them yet I am hesitant to post my dimensions encase I did not get them right, would hate to mess someone else up also..

 

Mmm. How much is left of your original floor panels? If you are short on cash, I'd suggest that you get some big pieces of cardboard and make your own patterns. Classic Enterprises has pictures of their floor patch panels and hat channel replacements here - http://www.classicent.com/jeep/cj5-m38a-1951-1971 Unless your Jeep is completely rusted away, you should be able to measure from what you have and make some cardboard patterns.

NB 12 ga is massively heavy for floor panels. The originals were 18 or 19 ga, which is lighter and cheaper and much easier to work with. There are lots of articles online about improvising a brake to make the bend you need. You can do a lot with hand tools, and a few carefully chosen portable power tools.

 

Figure since I'm not doing a restore I'd use diamond tread for the front floor pans instead of flat sheet metal. Was hoping for lighter gauge than 12 but, that was all they had for diamond tread unless I had them order in and pay for a full sheet. Figure at least I should not have to replace front floor pans for a while!

 

My local metal place had "drops", pieces left over from other jobs at a clearance price. I bought several 2'X2' and some 2'X3' pieces of 16 ga. for a decent price. My bender was a section of 2X8 channel strapped to the rear bumper of the motor home, hammer, Vice grips, C clamps, what ever it took to get it right. I did do the cardboard patterns as well for the floors but they would have been for a 3B.

 

The cj5 was part of a package deal I got on 5 from an estate. Two cj3a's two cj2as and the cj5. One of the 2a is a column shifted vec. Honestly that's why I wanted them. Was an all or nothing deal however. He also had 4 66 olds toronados he wanted to sell as a package. It was all I could do to get him to sell just the jeeps and keep the olds package separate. Wife would kill me with 9 new treasures sitting out here.

My my initial intention was to sell the cj5 and restore the VEC 2a. I'll need stuff from each of the flatties to do it. And I already have a 57 cj5. Then liquidate the other flatties.

Then I started to look the cj5 over and decided a I have enough crap laying around to do most of it and decided I didn't want to sell it. With that all said I want it done sans cash (yeah right).

I have a metal brake and am prepared to make the pans. Was just hoping someone else already had the templates for a set. The front pans are pretty well gone--I have a good amount of trans hump left. Will have to repair section of the drop. Then I have some passenger corner work and tail area to do.



Interesting thing about this jeep. It used to have two jerry can holders on each side between the fender and opening. When I removed what was left of the one I found a gulf oil emblem painted on side. Also the jeep appears to have been orange at one time. Checked driver side and found same thing?!?

 

It sounds like you will have a bit of an interesting time in your future. The column shift is probably the best, as long as you can find the buyer that knows what it is if you decide to sell it.The guy my father worked for used to park his 2A in the shop and we would play in it as kids will do. Why is the shifter on the column instead of coming out of the floor?

 

I've heard willys thought the column shift would be considered more refined by soldiers returning from war. Not sure why they thought that--anyway didn't last long. It's overly complex.

Ive no plans to sell it. Not sure it's super valuable but it's kinda cool.

The CJ5 will be more fun to be sure with the dauntless

 

Just saying that a column shift vehicle is a good one to own and keep. Sort of like the 1948 "Lefties" The only year the spare was mounted on the drivers side.
My friend had a '67 Camaro with a column shift and he had to teach his wife how to un jam the thing in the parking lot at the grocery store. A few friends had Fords and Dodges with column shifrters. The mysterous Z shift to get them to work.
I've been running V6's since 1971, well worth the effort to put one in your Jeep. Good luck with your Jeeps.

 

As I understand it, the column shift was developed to provide more comfortable 3-across seating. It also allows your date to slide over more easily ... but I don't think that applies to a Jeep with bucket seats.

Certainly a top-shift floor shifter is mechanically more durable.

 

tomahawk......it would be interesting to find out the provenance of that CJ5 with the GULF logo and orange paint. Back in the late 60s early 70s GULF oil company was very active in sponsoring race vehicles and planes etc.. In 1970 Steve McQueen drove a 917 Porsche in the movie "Le Mans" with their Powder Blue and Orange Color Scheme and Logo. The CJ5 could have been a vehicle for a company engineer inspecting a refinery, pipeline etc. I think that is really cool and may be worth saving!

 

Driver28--that's why I found it curious. These are not stickers. The emblems were painted on. It has since been painted red. The paint is just so worn you can see the orange and gulf under it peaking thru. Then the dual jerry can setup.
May be hard to track its history down. PO is deceased and son didn't know much about any of them. PO owned a bunch of bars in Detroit area then near Mio MI.

 

I have went through this with my 62 . Check out my build 1962 cj5 Michaels build. I cut my floor plans out of 14ga . had a shop bend my hat channel . lots of pics