Won't start.... Turns over very slow.

Well duh.... I did have it in neutral. I need to KISS... keep it simple stupid.

I will look into that this weekend when I have more time.

The oil on the dipstick looks fine. Maybe I will drop the oil pan to inspect I further. Or just change it.

 

The rad fluid is full and looks fine. Transmission oil is about 2 years old. Levels were checked last year. There should not be any water in it because it is a covered barn and a car cover over the jeep. Not to say there isn't any just because of moisture in the air but I would not think it would cause an issue.

Is there an easy way to check the pressure plate?

I won't be able to work on it tonight but will check the things your suggest this weekend.

 

I found this online as a possible fix for a frozen pressure plate.

"The simplest procedure can be done in your garage in a few seconds. It assumes that the brakes are working, that the clutch hydraulics are working, the starter motor works, and that the battery is charged. (I suppose it also rashly assumes that you have two feet and at least one hand). Sit in the driver's seat. Pump the brake pedal a couple of times and hold the brakes on firmly with your right foot. Depress the clutch pedal fully with your left foot. Put the transmission in 3rd gear (least likely to drive the car away), and engage the starter for about one second. If you're lucky the torque from the starter motor may break the flywheel free from the clutch disk, and the engine will crank over normally. "

I will give it a try....

 

As a side note.... When I put the jeep in storage I put Sta-bil in the gas and ran the engine for a while. And I put moth balls in the Jeep and engine bay to keep out the critters. You could smell it a few feet away... That did not deter the mouse that used my wiring as a buffet.

 

Naw, they like that stuff.

 

Get another body to help. One of you in the jeep and one of you on the tractor and pull start it.

 

In post #24 This won't help until you solve the electrical power problem and also if you suspect the frozen clutch disk then put your transfer case in neutral. This will allow the transmission to turn with the engine and not the drive shaft. Note that the severe voltage drop to 5V on crank is not a good reading. If the battery and cables are in very good condition then the battery voltage should stay at about no less than 10V on a locked up starter for a short time and the cables should get pretty warm. Make sure your Negative battery cable is connected to the engine directly and your starter bolts are tight.

 

I am pretty sure, but not 100% sure, it is not a battery issue. I have tried, with jumper cables, the battery from my daily driver and my tractor. I do plan on buying a new battery, hopefully this weekend.

 

Just wondering, is it also hard to turn by hand with a wrench with the spark plugs out in neutral?

 

This is a long shot, but you might want to double check and make sure that something has not crawled into the exhaust pipe and plugged it. The back pressure will impact the crank.

Another item to check is that wire for the tach. Make sure that it is not shorting out anywhere. That will prevent your jeep from starting.

 

Are you measuring the voltages directly on the battery posts themselves?

It is possible for the battery terminal clamps to suffer corrosion or poor contact in the cable contact within the clamp itself... i.e. the cable to clamp connection may be poor. That would show normal voltages in the system, but severe voltage drop on the vehicle side when under load. Changing batteries would make no difference.


Have you tried jumping a known-good battery directly to the starter terminal, and with a direct ground to the block?

 

If you can turn the engine with a socket on the crank pulley with normal effort, and you take the battery to be load tested and it checks ok, and you have cleaned and tightened the ground strap to the engine block from the battery and you clean and tighten the pos strap to the solenoid, it is in the starter. Either the bushing for the starter bendix shaft is gone and binding or the motor itself has internal damage and needs replaced or rebuilt.

Slow starter for me has always been either a ground or more likely a shorted out plate in the battery. lead sulfide sluffs off the plate and builds up in the battery shorting a plat or 2 or more. It will check at 12.6 volts or so, but as soon as a load is placed on it it goes to 9 or farther below. It doesn't seem to help with a jump either all the time. Either load test battery yourself with your home charger, if you have it, or take battery to auto parts store and have them check it.

 

Thanks for all the good ideas and assistance!

I hope to get some time this weekend to troubleshoot it further.

 

1968 Toyota Landcruiser starter from Rock Auto

 

My starter is very slow, all has been checked but... the engine starts. So I keep it like this.
Good battery, good connections but it is slow, and it starts, I have just to wait. It is a 71.
It turns slowly, like a tired boy, and then ... vroom. So, why to change, it is like this for 4 years.

 

He has a 225V6 so the landcruiser won't fit.