1956 CJ-5 Questions

Hey , no one said you were a quitter , the point on the no free rides was just meant to mean that any Carb. you stick on there you will more than likely have to tinker with to get it right.............take your time and get a handle on everything you have there........once you know a little more about your components then you can start to lay out a plan on what your ultimate goals are.........don't get carried away and set out on a complete overhaul......try to get it running first and enjoy it a little while you learn more about it and Jeeps................getting overwhelmed is easy.

 

tarry99, I'm not mad or anything, well kinda mad at myself for not looking at this a little closer before I bought it. My thoughts are about what you just said, I'm going to see if fI can find a donor body to cut out the tunnel for the dash and weld back in mine, then move motor where it belongs. I knew when I bought this it would be a couple years before it would be on the road. I started this post wondering if a 4 barrel was a bit much for a V6, and all of you have gave me lots of great advice. I just didn't understand in the beginning if this was such a great motor swap why was my jeep so hacked, by all the advice I have got from all you jeep guru's, I know now that the PO should have ask you guys first before he just started hacking with a sawall!!!! I now also know why he was never happy with how it turned out. So Yes, I'm gathering up all the things I need then I will start my rebuild, and in the end , Thanks to all the advice I have got from you guys I will get it back right and be able to enjoy my jeep for along time. Thanks and I will be asking lots of questions. Bruce

 

Looks like late valve covers. Has egr valve. My guess would be its a 252.

 

Well today, I picked up a 1965 rolling chassis, with a 225 dauntless , and all the running gears. A buddy and I did a temp wiring hook up and fired the old girl up. Ran great, no smoke, or noises. So this will be my new motor, now I will be able to mount it in my frame just as it was in this frame. Once everything is in my frame I will sell off this frame and all parts left over.[/URL][/IMG][/URL][/IMG]

 

Ok I have hit a snag in my rebuild/ restore, and I need some answers /advice. I tore the 56 down to a bare frame, took the 225 Dauntless, T-14 transmission & model 18 transfer case outa my 65 donor chassis. I just rebuilt the transmission & transfer case, and put them in there new home, when I went to install the front drive shaft is when I hit a snag. The front diff on the 56 is a Dana 25 where the 65 has a Dana 27 so the yokes are different sizes. Reading and searching the forums , I have found I need to run the shims under my cross member and run the small dia. drive shaft so it doesn't hit the starter. And that I need to find a long spline shaft. my question is can I change the 10 spline yoke in the 56 diff to the small u-joint or do I have to run a u-joint that is different sizes on both sides? By the way this set up runs the trans right to the bell housing so no adapter to add length, but where the problem comes from is the 56 has reverse shackles from the factory, where the 65 doesn't, that's why the shaft won't reach. So what advice / answer do you guys suggest ? Thanks, Bruce. BTW, This site has answered so many questions already, I love this site!!!!!!

 

The shafts can hit the starter on stock :v6: CJ's with no lift...even with the smaller driveshaft. My dad's 69 will do it if you get it twisted enough.

 

So if I get a drive shaft for a m38a1 or a 55 to 57 since they all had reverse shackles and change transfer case too large yoke I should be ok. I don't plan on wheeling hard so I think I will be ok. Thanks guys!!

 

If the gearing is the same, say 5.38 which is what mine are, why not just pull the axle from the front of the donor and switch it with the one from the 56?

 

Ok, I just reread my post, the 56 has a Dana 25 and the 65 has a Dana 27. As for just switching the axles, the 56 has all new bearing and seals in it already, I really don't want the expense of rebuilding the 65 if I can just change out yoke and buy a long spline drive shaft. I guess my question is, is there such a yoke made that has 10 spline count with small u-joint? I looked on Tom Woods site and I can get a drive shaft. The transfer case in it now it a Dana 18, what was in the jeep when I bought it was a splicer 18, I think the front yoke on them will interchange ? I measured my M38A1 and it has the long shaft with the large u-joints, so I think one of them will work. I'm working on cleaning and replacing all gaskets in motor right now, so when it's done and installed in frame, I will have more of an idea how much room there is, too see which drive shaft will be the better choice.

 

It's starting to take shape now, looking more like a jeep everyday!!!! Bruce [/URL][/IMG][/URL][/IMG] [/URL][/IMG] [/URL][/IMG]

 

Looking good.