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Removing spindle wheel bearing nut

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by aekdbbop, Oct 8, 2014.

  1. Oct 8, 2014
    aekdbbop

    aekdbbop Member

    TN
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    When I was getting my wheels of after getting my cj5 home, the lugs were rusted on so much that they stripped out the threads and spun freely on the bolts.

    I had to cut the bolts to get them off, now i need to replace the bolts.

    I purchased a Front Spindle Wheel Bearing Wrench Socket from KW..

    My question is, do I need to do anything in the diff to get the spindle off? Or just back off the nut with the socket?

    Thanks!
     
    aekdbbop, Oct 8, 2014
    #1
  2. Oct 8, 2014
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    There's actually (or should be) two nuts on there with a locking washer type dealie between them, it's thin & gets bent over the nut flats to prevent them from loosening. You'll need to find where it's bent over the outer nut & bend it back to loosen the nut.

    After the outer nut is off the washer should just slip off & you can remove the inner nut, then the hub should just slide off the spindle. Nothing needs to be done with the differential.

    Do you have the factory service manual? If not I strongly suggest you pick one up.

    H.

    p.s.- it wasn't the driver side nuts that were stuck on the studs was it? Depending on the year of your jeep they could be left hand threads.
     
    Howard Eisenhauer, Oct 8, 2014
    #2
  3. Oct 8, 2014
    Philip-TX

    Philip-TX Member

    Flower Mound, Tx
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    Pic to go with Howard's 1000 words. :)


    [​IMG]
     
    Philip-TX, Oct 8, 2014
    #3
  4. Oct 8, 2014
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    Another thing you should be aware of. If you don't intend to replace the rear hub seal, be careful removing the hub/drum so you don't scrape that seal on the spindle threads.
     
    duffer, Oct 8, 2014
    #4
  5. Oct 8, 2014
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Do you reuse the grease seal? I thought you always had to replace it if you removed the hub.
     
    timgr, Oct 8, 2014
    #5
  6. Oct 8, 2014
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    I usually do replace it. Certainly if looking at the bearings. However, in this case where just replacing the wheel studs is the issue, that "could" be done without removing the rear bearing or seal. Is that wise being it's already apart? Probably not but depends on what things look like and how big a cheapskate one is.
     
    duffer, Oct 8, 2014
    #6
  7. Oct 8, 2014
    Arnold Layne

    Arnold Layne Member

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    What years?
     
    Arnold Layne, Oct 8, 2014
    #7
  8. Oct 8, 2014
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    From the parts manual it appears they were used up to s/n 144078 (cj5) or 22220 (cj6)- this appears to be early '63.

    H.
     
    Howard Eisenhauer, Oct 8, 2014
    #8
  9. Oct 8, 2014
    Philip-TX

    Philip-TX Member

    Flower Mound, Tx
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    The end of the stud should have an "L" stamped in it. (At least my '59 does.)
     
    Philip-TX, Oct 8, 2014
    #9
  10. Oct 8, 2014
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    "Do you reuse the grease seal? I thought you always had to replace it if you removed the hub."

    Should, yeah.
    Have to? ...Naw.
     
    PeteL, Oct 8, 2014
    #10
  11. Oct 8, 2014
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    The years with left hand threads. R)


    Sometimes they are stamped with a 'L' on the end, or the nuts may have a ID groove marked around the flats.

    Another sure sign is busted studs, from where they snapped off as you tried to loosen them the wrong way.
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2014
    PeteL, Oct 8, 2014
    #11
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