Rebuild Dauntless project.

Hi all,

I recently bought this Jeep as a father/son project. But I feel I will need the forums help with solving some issues. I will be totally rebuilding the 225 v6 as I cannot find a walk through guide on this forum. If there is, Let me know will ya?

I will be posting pictures of the current progress. If this is the wrong area to do so. Let me know.

 

After removing the radiator this is what was in the hose.


This is as it sits today. I can't Identify the distributor make and model. anybody know?

Name that distributor! and what I can use to replace it!

A shot of the leaky front axle..theirs a leaky steering gear box as well..and oil pan..etc..

 

Nice jeep, and welcome.
225 engine rebuild, There is a few others on the site but this is relatively recent.
http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?101530-225-engine-assembly


I think that is a prestolite, it doesn't look like the one I got on my buick. You can replace it with a delco distributor, or get a hei (either convert your self or buy pre-converted)
there should be a number on the side of the distributor. Another member will confirm this

 

As piffy said, that looks like a Prestolite, the vacumn advance doesn't look like any Delco I have ever seen and the cap is too small to be a Delco and no door to adjust the points. The Delco is better, you can find parts for it anywhere, standard GM stuff.
Pertonix is the next upgrade for the distributor.
IIRC, it was Grannys CJ that a complete write up on his V6 rebuild, you should do a search for it.
Yes, CJ's leak stuff, sort of like British motorcycles, if there is no leaks, it's time to fill something.
BTW, it is a nice looking Jeep.

 

What's wrong with the engine why does it need a rebuild? Besides having alot of rust in the cooling system?

 

Probably the biggest mistake to ever make on an old Jeep is to tear it apart before knowing the condition of the components.
As stated above, what made you decide to rebuild the motor? Another big mistake that people make with a Buick motors is thinking that there is a problem when they have low oil pressure. These motors in stock form when new ran about 15 psi at hot idle. Not comparable to today's motors or even their counterparts of the day. If you don't like leaks then you bought the wrong project. The running gear in an early Jeep mostly stems from designs created in the late 1930's so also not anything like today's technology.

 

Well, when I bought it the PO started the engine for about 40 seconds. It would die after that. I got it home and tried to start it but all I got was flames out of the Carborator and backfires out of both banks of the dual exhaust. I've checked the settings on the carb and everything seems as it should. There no hesitation on start up but running it terrible. This leads me to believe that the Timing Chain skipped a tooth. I've heard that these come with a type of "plastic" gear back in the 60's. So this is why i'm taking it apart. If you guys have seen this before and know what it is I'm all ears.

 

Also, just to note the Carb is a Holley 4160 390cfm and the intake is a Hoffy.

 

Nice uncut dash. Might the nicest one I've seen on a Jeep with any modifications at all.

And believe or not, if you do it right, you can get a ECJ5 to stop leaking.

I've conquered everything but the D18. My D18 oil pan is warped, once I replace it, no more oily drip pans! :twisted:

Good luck with your rebuild.

 

Looks like the PO recently put new plug wires on it. I'd check to make sure they are installed in the right places first. Then I'd move to the timing chain and gears. You may not have to do a total rebuild on this engine.

 

I've checked the firing order and it's correct. it appears to be a new distributor cap too.

 

I would, check the compression of the cylinders. (at some point)

did he replace the points? you said new cap but that doesn't always mean new points.
is the timing set with a timing light and did you check this? If the timing did skip a gear, timing chain on these engines is easy to replace. If you can get the bolts off.

 

I'd suggest you get the factory service manual (FSM) available from any of the Jeep aftermarket retailers. Certainly it is worthwhile to get the engine running and evaluate it in terms of oil pressure and compression. If I discovered that the engine has wear issues, other than having jumped time or just not being tuned correctly, Then I would consider a rebuild. This is an excellent and inexpensive place to start - http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Builde...6911&sr=8-1&keywords=engine+builders+handbook

Note that the wires have to be in order, and the rotor has to point to the #1 cylinder wire when the timing marks are lined up, and the #1 cylinder has to be on the compression stroke. It's pretty easy to determine the compression stroke on #1 by removing its spark plug and the distributor cap, watching the rotor location and listening for the chuff of the compression stroke.

 

First off welcome to the forum. We have a introduction page where new members introduce themselves and their location. May have a member right around the corner from you. Good looking jeep by the way. You will get all the help you need on your jeep right here on this forum. Many very smart and experienced members here that have already been through what you are just beginning to. There is no such thing as a dumb jeep question so don't be afraid to ask. Good luck with your repairs.

 

Thanks for the info. Is there an online source I can purchase the FSM from?
I'll probably remove the fan, water pump, and timing cover to double check the sprocket teeth. Then I'll do the distributor location check you mentioned.

I'll have more pictures too.

 

Have you confirmed that you have an ODDFIRE distributor?

 

When you pull the timing chain cover don't miss the bolt in the middle on the left side right under the water pump housing. Many have broken the cover by beating on the cover without taking out the hidden bolt.

 

Great looking project.

Like some of the others said I wouldn't jump in to a rebuild unless the compression was low. If you don't have a compression gauge I would recommend just buying one - they're not that expensive. When using the compression gauge hold the throttle plate open in the carb. Try the reading dry and then with a squirt of oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. If the compression goes up a lot after a squirt of oil that tells you something about the condition.

Welcome to the forum.

 

I've looked at the firing order in the Hayens manual and it matches the distributor cap routing the cables to the spark plugs so I'm betting oddfire. I will remember that hidden bolt for the cover too.
Will I need to take the water pump off to do this? All new gaskets and a Cloyes ROLLER Timing chain set are in order then huh?

 

Turner's is one possibility - http://thejeep.com/shop/TECH+MANUAL...ECH+MANUAL+CJ3B+CJ5%252F6+12V+4+%2526V-6.html - thre are many many others.