Planning My Build

Steve,

Again thanks for the time and information. It's very helpful. I'm quite happy with my 31" tires for right now. However, since I'm trying to avoid re-doing as much as possible in the future (a thought I'm sure you can appreciate) I'd like to allow for 33" tires. I'll save all the 35"+ stuff for a JK build down the road. I've talked to a couple of guys who run 15" wide 33" tires in the snow and do quite well. I do run a lot of rocky trails (Red Lake/Coyote Lake) so the high steer is appealing to me. I am looking to keep the SUA setup and run as little lift as possible. So the question becomes how little lift can I run to clear 33" tires and high steer in the future? I'm guessing that once the springs settle and the body lift comes off, the 33" tires will have clearance issues. I don't know if my PMs are getting through to you. My system seems to act a little slow and eratic with this forum.

 

I wouldn't bother with a high steer setup if you aren't going to do a spring over. Just my .02 though. I bought Chevy flatop knuckles and the high steer arms from Parts Mike. Made my own tie rod and draglink and it was just shy of $800. Unless what you mean by high steer is a tie rod flip. That I can see being worthwhile.

 

Here's an update with a few photos and (of course) a few more questions.



Well I think I'm officially committed at this point.....or is that "should be committed" for attempting this

Here's a close up of the line



and from the back



All to get this



So in the unlikely event that someone else thinks this is a good idea, here's what I've learned so far. The position of the cut on the first tub is pretty good. There's a natural angular line that slips between the tank fill indentation, the edge of the step up to the rear and misses the corner of the fender well. However, when you go to cut the second tub, even if you start at the firewall, you need to transition to vertical as the angle would hit the door opening before reaching the height to match the rear bed top. My second tub had "Jeep" embossed into the sheet metal. I started the angle cut an inch back from the firewall and just missed the end of the "Jeep" stamping. The location of my vertical cut allowed me to preserve the support. The tubs are just sitting next to each other. I still have a little more fine tuning and alignment to do before I weld them together.

 

And now for the questions

1) What gauge metal is the body and floor? I was thinking of going with 16 gauge.
2) I'm still debating the V6 vs V8. You guys have got me pretty convinced that the extra length and weight warrant the V8. So how much HP can the Dana 18 (large hole) and the Dana 44 rear take? I know there's a lot of variables on this but I'm not really a "hammer down" nut with the throttle. It will be in the rocks and on fire roads. I will be running 31" tires for the near future with the thought of 33" tires in the future. If I go V8, I'm looking at a 5.3 (285 hp), L33 aluminum block 5.3 (310 hp) or 6.0 (denali motor, ? HP). If any of these options are clearly overwhelming for the 18 and 44 then I'll probably rule them out. If they're all over the top then I'll have to consider the V6 or committing to the axles and transfer case upgrade. I see Novak has adaptors to the 4L60 but not the 80 so I'm leaning that direction. Length is not an issue for me unless the front driveshaft becomes a problem.

 

The way I read Novak's site is that the d-18 is very capable. The 44 is also reasonable. Neither these or most other heavier stuff are made for someone that does not understand how to regulate the skinny pedal regardless of the potential power to the wheels.

If I understand it right, 289 fords were a popular conversion once with the T18. I know some folks with the sbc Chevy 283. I just bought some stuff off a guy with a buick 350 jammed in there. My uncle used to race his mustang 289 and turned about 112 or so in the quarter... Jeeps ARE not default built to levitate and fly at quarter mile speeds, 289, 283, 401, or in between - even a 225 made up for Daytona (although that intrigues me!), or with chipmunks on a wheel twisting a band... Stuff will break without respect. Sort of shows the validity with the little 4 bangers that came as OEM as well as those later more peppy versions.

I know many of our members here have v8 or v6 power that is super, and they can comment specifically. I highly doubt you'll be in trouble with your choices if you manage your right foot and treat your equipment right.


I've noticed with frequency that idiot can tear up a piece of equipment, (era specially now we are blessed with Internet) and repeatedly so if they have more cash than sense. Doesn't seem to matter if parts are fabricated from a range of a caterpillar parts to a beetle...

But, alas, we all want the Binford 9900 under the hood (huhuhuhuhhuh), and with that let's talk more power...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

I was looking siinCe there have been several discussionS on newer motor conversions recently...

From google try something like this: "site:earlycj5.net v6 conversion" minus the quotes.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk