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Nellers CJ5 Build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Turk P, Jan 20, 2013.

  1. Jul 22, 2013
    Turk P

    Turk P Member

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2013
    Messages:
    77
    I'm using .188 wall on everything. That is one of the differences from mine and the JP build. They used .188 wall for the center section, and .120 wall for the ends and bumpers. I figured that I should build it bigger than I presently think because I can't tell the future. Who knows, I may need more horsepower, stronger axles or what not in the future.

    Steve
     
  2. Jul 22, 2013
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2011
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    2,116
    Yes maybe some coil spring that help to have a strong frame
     
  3. Jul 24, 2013
    Turk P

    Turk P Member

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    I did think about building it with coils but being a full time student with a double major I figured that simpler was better at this time. Maybe in the future. I hope that this weekend I can get back out in the garage and finish up the suspension and body mounts. I haven't figured out where I want to put the fuel tank yet, under the drivers seat, behind the rear axle or in front of the rear axle. I will play around with that this weekend too.

    Steve
     
  4. Jul 25, 2013
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
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    Nice work, Turk P. I just found your thread. You are definitely on the right track.
     
  5. Nov 21, 2013
    Turk P

    Turk P Member

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    I know it's been a while but don't worry I come bearing pic's. It's time to get back to work on the CJ now that I finally graduated from med school last month. Not to mention that our trip to Moab in May is going to be here in no time and the wife wants to take the CJ. I do have to admit that I have been out wheeling my Willys Wagon the last few weekends and loving every minute of it.

    I got the tub back from sandblasting yesterday and for the most part I am happily surprised. There is only the one rust hole in the bottom of the toolbox that I already knew about. Although, I'm bewildered by all of the holes around the upper and top edge of the tub and the hinge side of the doors, 200+ holes. Any ideas why? I think someone got a new drill for Christmas and wanted to try it out. The other bad area is the top of the rear wheel boxes they are bent down and the PO.....well....see for yourself.

    We decided to make a few small changes to the CJ; out with the D44's, GM 4.3, TH350/d18 and in with 14 bolt rear axle, Dana 60HP front axle, a LS gen III/IV, 4l60e/NP241.

    About 100 of us went out to Sand Hollow, UT two weekends ago for a weekend of wheeling.
    [​IMG][/URL] sh006 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [​IMG][/URL] sh012 by Sparky Powers
    [​IMG][/URL] IMG_4396 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [​IMG][/URL] IMG_4383 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG][​IMG][/URL] IMG_4390 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [​IMG][/URL] IMG_4385 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]on Flickr[/IMG]
     
  6. Nov 22, 2013
    jeepcj

    jeepcj Member

    cincy, Ohio
    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2009
    Messages:
    601
    The holes on the top edge, and door openings are from new snaps for the top and doors being put in. I have a bunch of them on mine too.
     
  7. Nov 22, 2013
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2003
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    4,538
    I had all the holes in the same areas too. I welded them all closed. Looks a lot better without them.
     
  8. Nov 23, 2013
    Turk P

    Turk P Member

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    I thought the holes might have been for the snaps from a soft top. I just cant believe how many holes there are. Oh well, at least they will be easy to weld up. I can't wait to get back to work on the CJ.
     
  9. Nov 25, 2013
    Turk P

    Turk P Member

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    Day 3 of the roundup of the new parts I found a GM 14 bolt 1 ton FF and a NP241, not to bad for a days work. I'm sure those were the easy to find and cheap parts. Oh well, I figure the sale of the D44's, trans and transfer case that will help offset the cost of a D60 front axle.

    I started on the bodywork yesterday and so far everything is going pretty good. I was able to remove the toolbox mostly intact just in case someone needed it for their project. I did make one cut on it because I couldn't get to the spot welds but I figure whoever wants it will have to do the same thing to remove their old one. Just like the rest of the tub there is only some light surface rust but otherwise it's in great shape. Thankfully I didn't find any surprises when I removed the toolbox. The only rust spot that I have is now easily repaired.

    I removed the top of the passenger wheel well because they were crushed in by the PO's roll bar that wasn't properly supported. I just need to find someone local to roll in a couple beads into the sheet metal and I can get the fender wells finished up. I also decided to notch the fender wells while I was at it.



    [​IMG][/URL] 20131123_105
    [​IMG]
    IMG_4399 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [​IMG][/URL] IMG_4398 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [​IMG][/URL] IMG_4404 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [​IMG][/URL] IMG_4400 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]950 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
     
  10. Nov 25, 2013
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784
    Looks like soft top snap holes although sometimes if the sand blaster uses sand instead of a fine plastic media the high pressure blasting will go right though previously rusted or thin metal.........harder to weld than you think. It may have to be backed up with sheet metal on the reverse side.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2013
  11. Dec 29, 2013
    Turk P

    Turk P Member

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    I haven't made much progress lately. I notched the rear wheel wells to allow a little extra leg room and tacked in the new upper rear wheel wells. I got all excited today and rolled the CJ out of the garage to get a better view of some of the new changes to the body styling. I decide to angle the windshield and the grille back slightly to give it a little bit of a hotrod feel. I will also be scrapping the tube fenders that I made and will be making a new set that hug the hood line better and also will provide a 6" flair.
    [​IMG][/URL] 20131228_162539 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [​IMG][/URL] 20131228_155837 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [​IMG][/URL] 20131228_155752 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG].
     
  12. Dec 29, 2013
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
    Joined:
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    Lookin' good. Is that your Wagon in the background? I had a '54 for 5 years, I still miss it.
     
  13. Dec 29, 2013
    Turk P

    Turk P Member

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    Thanks Posimoto. Yep, that's my baby, a 56' Wagon that I repowered a couple years ago. I put as many miles on it as I do my pickup truck. If I finished putting A/C in the Willys I would drive it year round.

    Steve
     
  14. Dec 30, 2013
    Long&Low

    Long&Low Active Member

    Geauga County, OH
    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2009
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    1,212
    I like that wagon also.
     
  15. Dec 31, 2013
    Turk P

    Turk P Member

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    Thanks, it's a blast driving a piece of American history and awakening the eyes of the young and of the curious.

    Steve
     
  16. Jan 2, 2014
    Turk P

    Turk P Member

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    Here are some pic's of how I raked the windshield back.

    I guess that quality control took a smoke brake when these came down the line.
    [​IMG][/URL] 20131229_133254 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    Here is the new angle and you will notice that now they both match.
    [​IMG][/URL] 20131229_145817 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    Ended up hammer forming the new windshield base because my friends sheetmetal shop was closed due the the New Year.
    [​IMG][/URL] 20131231_110504 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    Last but not least all the bends are in and the defrost vents have been shaped.
    [​IMG][/URL] 20131231_130139 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    I got the base all welded in and and back on the CJ before I realized that I didn't take any pics so I will get those posted tomorrow.

    Steve
     
  17. Jan 3, 2014
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
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    So you going to modify the top and the doors also for the new windshield angle? Di that base require that much more width to catch up to that angle? How about a gasket?
    What wheelbase is that now?
    How do you like the shackle reversal?...........Your wife going to drive this on the street?
     
  18. Jan 3, 2014
    givemethewillys

    givemethewillys Been here since sparky ran it. 2022 Sponsor

    New Kent, VA
    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2005
    Messages:
    2,009
    Nice job on the Jeep and I really like those wheel dollies you made! Can you post up some specifics on them? They look handy. Any specific reason for fabbing those up rather than buying a set? I would think cost would be about the same. Looks great regardless :)
     
  19. Jan 3, 2014
    Turk P

    Turk P Member

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    tarry99, I couldn't cut up such a nice specimen of a hard top and doors. I have the top and door up for sale. I will be getting a bikini top for it later or I might spring for a custom made soft top so it will clear the rollcage. When I changed the windshield angle it only added about 3/16" to the base. I moved the vent holes to make sure they lined up to the tub vents and the stock seal still works great.

    The wheelbase in the pictures is at 95" but that is soon to change to approx. 100-102". I'm ditching the leaf spring setup and D44's replacing them with 14bolt double triangulated 4 link rear and Dana 60 3 link panhard front. My wife is super excited to drive it. She says the test is to be able to drive it from home here in Las Vegas to Moab, wheel it hard and then drive it back home.

    Thanks jonnyc1999, I will post some pic's on the wheel dollies tonight. I made them this way for a couple of reasons, not so much cost savings because to build them only saved me a few dollars. I think it cost me about $250 to build the set, the biggest cost was the swivel wheels (rated at 300lbs ea.). I made them this way to put the center of the axles at the ride height with 35" tires. Then I set the width of the dollies that a 35x12.5 wire would rest in them with out hitting the floor or sitting to high. I made the wheel brackets detachable so I could easily change out different brackets.

    Once you have used wheel dollies especially in a small workspace you will wonder why you didn't get them sooner.

    Steve
     
  20. Jan 3, 2014
    Turk P

    Turk P Member

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    Here are the rest of the pic's for the windshield and also the dollies that I made. I still need to trim the vertical face of the inside (area with the spot welds drilled out). With the windshield being raked the sheet metal is too long and will hit the screws that hold the dash in place. I'm waiting to trim this piece until I have my regulator for the oxyacetylene rebuilt. I feel much more comfortable welding a long flat piece of sheet metal with a oxyacetylene torch than a mig welder, less chance of warpage.

    Oh, I finished welding up the 191 holes that were in the hinge area of the doors and around the top edge of the tub. Boring!

    [​IMG][/URL] 20140101_173834 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [​IMG][/URL] 20140103_114643 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [​IMG][/URL] 20140103_114541 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [​IMG][/URL] 20140103_150420 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [​IMG][/URL] 20140103_124204 by Sparky Powers, on Flickr[/IMG]
     
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