Another Quality Part From Omix-Ada

You can almost taste the sarcasm....

I just bought a Omix Pedal draft kit and got it in the mail today. I just went out and installed it and it works fantastic on the brake pedal. but on the clutch pedal it interferes on the vertical triangular-shaped body support, under the toe part of the floorboard where it angles up to the firewall.

Both the rubber washer and the metal fender-washer rub going down the full pedal travel and it likes to hang up and not return to the upright position. I trimmed quite a bit off the rubber washer and I replaced the fender washer with a normal washer and it still rubs going up and down and tries to hang up and stay down.

Does anyone know why I could be having such a problem with this? Or how I could make this fit better? The only thing I can think of that could fix my problem would be either move the body towards the passenger side to make that support farther from the pedal (which the body appears well positioned as it, looks center on frame)

Or could it be because my pedal shaft is sooooo worn that it doesn't stay in the factory intended distance from the body? (my brake pedal can be moved side to side about 3/4" either way, but my clutch pedal doesn't seem to have a lot of slop in it)

I would have pictures for you guys but the sun has set so pictures would be poor if I tried to take them now.

 

Not sure if it is the same but mine is bent some and it works very similar to yours

 

If you enjoyed this part, just wait 'till you try their drag link rebuild kit or a steering wheel from Omix.

Just another reason to repair the old part instead of the "look alike but won't work" reproduction world.

 

Try their F-head carb to filter hose. Above 1500 RPM is collapsed shut and the engine stops dead from lack of air.

 

And mine turned into shreds in a year. Whereas my original '57 is still in good condition. WTF?

 

Ah, yes the collapsing hose....

This is a classic example of a repro part manufacturer making a part that looks like the original one, but does not have the quality or functionality of the original. I've gone so far as to repair an old original hose with epoxy glue rather than use a 'faux' hose from omix.

But my all time favorite is the drag link kit. The springs are 1.5 times as long as the original, and the grooves in the plugs for the cotter pins are cut too shallow to allow the user to install the pin. Well, both plugs are too shallow, but maybe the rear plug might be able to be forced. The arc of the plugs is different from the originals and doesn't fit the pittman arm and bellcrank balls well. HOWEVER, on the plus side, the rubber shield and the metal cover for the rubber shield work fine!

Oh, yes -- another point in Omix' favor on the kit -- it is the right color.

The problem is that no one at Omix even cares that their products are inferior --

 

I hope Walck's doesn't sell that crap, please tell me they don't. I have some of those very parts stashed for my rebuild that I bought new from Walck's.

 

I used a drag-link rebuild kit from Walcks a few years ago. The quality was good, and it fit well.

 

My air intake hose came from Walcks. Other parts were crap too, such as the metal horn on top of the carb.

Really disappointing that they let this stuff into their inventory. Really hurt their reputation with me.

At the least, if there is no better part available, they could offer a descriptive warning on parts that are sub-par or not to spec. Many antique car catalogs do so.

Remember the old Sears catalog "Good, Better, Best?'

 

I'm not even sure if I know how the draft kit is set up, but isn't it just a baffle that presses up against the clutch hole when the clutch is released? What I'm trying to say, is would it work from the outside of the tub, at the junction of the clutch arm and clutch pedal? It sounds like you're trying to get it to slide along as you depress the pedal.

Once again, I've never seen a "real" draft kit, and only a picture on the interwebs of a rubber washer and a fender washer.

 

"Or could it be because my pedal shaft is sooooo worn that it doesn't stay in the factory intended distance from the body? "

Sounds possible. Bodies shift over time as the mounts wear. And excessive pedal pivot slop is a very well known problem in older jeeps. There even used to be a factory kit to tighten it.

 

The kit can be made with all-thread, washers and 4 nuts. You slip the all-thread through the shaft with a washer (flat, high quality) and tension it with a nut on each end. Then a lock-nut on top of those. Use grade-8 hardware, and leave a smidgen of play so the peddles will pivot freely.

 

Here

http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/23Pedal_Repair.jpg

and here


http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?98444-brake-pedal-sideways-slop

 

Omix-Data sells a set of parts to rebuild the T 90 gearbox, with a guarantee of...5 years.

Does somebody already used this kit?

 

OOOOOOH scary stuff, Alan. Far better off with NOS parts form Peter Debella or Ebay.. NORS replacement parts from USA manufacturers old stock is also good. Especially synchronizer assemblies. The import stuff is pretty sad.

 

How about the hard parts like this input (maindrive) gear? I can't find a 16 tooth input gear for my t90 to save my life. Do you think an input from omix ada would hold up? I kinda scares me because of the reputation they have for selling crap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400488506507?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

For my next Jeep, I'll be ready! It is difficult to believe that they can make low quality when they have the possibility to make normal one;

It is probably made somewhere where they produce cheap. I believed that it had disappeared, in the past we hade cheap production in Taiwan, but only when we did't put a control on it. When we had a control the quality was good, or the guy was not paid...

 

from my experience with Omix it would seem as though the parts normally look correct and fit perfect most times. but the problem lies in quality of the materials. every piece of rubber I have bought from them lasted less than 2 weeks on average. metals seem soft but pieces like windshield stand-offs that doesn't really matter. I have heard their steering bellcrank and ross box rebuilds are terrible.