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Oil pan woes...

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by Omicron, May 19, 2013.

  1. May 19, 2013
    Omicron

    Omicron New Member

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    Oil pan isn't sealing on front edge (just under crankshaft pulley). The bolts that secure oil pan to bottom lip of timing chain cover are stripped and just spin...what's my best option?
     
  2. May 19, 2013
    uncamonkey

    uncamonkey Member

    Greeley CO
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    The first thing we need to know is, what engine?
     
  3. May 19, 2013
    Omicron

    Omicron New Member

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    L-Flathead
     
  4. May 20, 2013
    GeoffreyL

    GeoffreyL Well-Known Member

    moorestown, nj
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    Helicoil the holes and put the bolts back in
     
  5. May 20, 2013
    GeoffreyL

    GeoffreyL Well-Known Member

    moorestown, nj
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    Or, you might get away with using 3 washers under the head of the bolt so when it goes to tighten, its not at the end where the thread is messed up
     
  6. May 20, 2013
    Omicron

    Omicron New Member

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    Sorry.. The bolt is fine, it's what the bolt screws into is stripped
     
  7. May 20, 2013
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Screws into the block? Helicoil. Or drill/tap oversized if there is enough material.
     
  8. May 20, 2013
    Omicron

    Omicron New Member

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    Drill and tap might work....maybe 1/8" of material to work with.
     
  9. May 20, 2013
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    The front four bolts actually go into the timing cover, not the block. Not thick enough for helicoils, I'd say clean it up with solvent to get rid of the oil & apply copious amounts of silicone.

    Failing that you *might* get away with tapping the cover holes to 3/8".

    H.
     
  10. May 20, 2013
    GeoffreyL

    GeoffreyL Well-Known Member

    moorestown, nj
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    Think about it like this, only the last bit of thread in the hole is bad, if you only thread into the good portion it will hold. Using washers to space the bolt shallower into the hole it will tighten up, just put 3 or 4 washers on and I bet you it will work, if not, you could also use threaded rod, weld it into the block, then use it like a stud and use nuts to tighten it up
     
  11. May 20, 2013
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    I think your best bet would be some of the heavy duty rivit nuts or threadserts. If the existing threads are stripped in the timing cover your 3 options are: 1) replace cover, 2) weld some nuts on the inside of the cover, or 3) drill and use the inserts. If you do use the inserts, I would be putting a good dab of RTV on them as you now have two places for each bolt to leak but the gasket may still constrain it.
    http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivet-nuts/=mu35v1
    http://catalog.automotivefasteners....hread-sert-174-threaded-fasteners-zinc-plated
     
  12. May 20, 2013
    Omicron

    Omicron New Member

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    Got the Jeep up on jackstands tonight to give me some room to work..

    Took a couple of nuts to the grinding wheel to shave them down.. Took about 1/2 off, this allows me to slide them on top of the lip in the timing cover... This should work.
     
  13. May 21, 2013
    Uncle Vin

    Uncle Vin Member 2022 Sponsor

    Long Island, New...
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    Howard: make some room in your Inbox. I'm trying to send you a message.
     
  14. May 21, 2013
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    I'm in favor of the silicone approach ... it's just splash behind the seal, and the modern gasket cements may be able to seal it. Let it set up overnight before you put oil in the pan and run it.
     
  15. May 21, 2013
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Should be good now.
     
  16. May 23, 2013
    Omicron

    Omicron New Member

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    Letting it set up still.. I'll run it this weekend to see what happens.
     
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