RMS re-seal today. Any input?

My 78 has the original RMS and after a few weeks of driving around town oiling the roads as I go... It's time for a fix. Just purchased a one piece silicon pan gasket and the two piece seal from NAPA, now to do an oil change the dirty way. For those who have done this recently, are there any tips or tricks I should know about? Also any "while your there" points to consider? Thanks in advance.

 

Gotta go so can't answer but I'll get this started- 6 or an 8?

 

- Let the oil drain overnight before you start.
- Loosen the crank main caps a little and pull down on the crank - this provides a little more room to slide the top half of the RMS in.
- Follow the directions that come with the RMS.

 

Don't forget to re-torque the crank bearing caps when you are done.

 

Well, ruined the first seal. Have to get another one in the am... The first one got a bit buggered up pushing in around the crank. Not sure how to keep it in good shape. Any ideas?

 

did you loosen up the mains? oil the seal before pushing it in?ive seen a tool that pulls it around the crank like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-Sneak..._Automotive_Tools&hash=item2328fa3db5&vxp=mtr

 

Make sure the bearing caps are loosened and the crank dropped a minute amount. Oil the seal thoroughly and while pushing it in, also push down down on the "top" of the seal while pushing it in. This will compress the seal by pushing the lip on the crank side down and not booger up the top. Take your time. I've only done this once in my 304 a few weeks ago, and I haven't had drips. I saw a little seepage this weekend while checking out things bottom side, and got under there this morning and retorqued the pan bolts.

 

That tool is for the rope seal, not rubber seals.

Careful with the pan bolts. Too much torque and you'll distort the pan, causing rather than curing a leak. There is a torque spec - check the TSM. It's low, like 5-7 ft-lb.

 

Yep torque wrenches are your friend here. Torqued my pan bolts at 7 ft-lbs when I installed them, and I retorqued them at 7 again this morning. (That is the small bolts. big bolts are 11). That was with my Craftsman digitorque.

Used my $30ish Mountain torque wrench from Amazon to get at my bearing cap bolts.

 

Thanks all. Job completed with little issue today. Sometimes it's good to just walk away for a bit. I pulled a bit harder on the crank and moved if down a few thousandths enabling the seal to fit easier--that and silglide/moly grease for lube. All bolts torqued to spec. The hardest part now it trying to clean all the oily mess on the engine, tranny, PTO and crossmember that was a result of the leak! What a mess... I will be having fun with the diesel powered steam cleaner I think.

 

leave the rust proofing its free

 

I've got a similar problem getting the top of the rms in. The old one came out easy, the new one not so much. I've followed all advice, she's only halfway in.
The old timer at napa suggested using Vaseline. Liberally applied, still no luck.
I haven't been able to get the main to drop any, and I've been tugging.
I even enlisted my daughter to rotate the crank with a wrench while I tried to feed it in their. Any advice?

 

I used Silglyd on the top and moly grease on the crank side of the seal. Loosening the crank on all mains then PULLING DOWN HARD seemed to help. My seal came with a small shoehorn device as well which I used. It went in easy with this process.

 

The rust proofing was removed. Can't stand grease and oil on the drivetrain. She's as clean as she was new. Sprayed some protectant on the transfer case, tranny and engine too to keep that nice clean look. A clean engine is s happy engine.

 

Silglyde is good stuff. http://www.amazon.com/SILGLYDE-LUBE-COMPOUND-8-OZ/dp/B000KXLR5E