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Resealing the 225 intake

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by grannyscj, Mar 22, 2013.

  1. Mar 22, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    The new rocker assemblies and push rods arrived yesterday so I may accomplish the rest of the top end this weekend. I'm unsure about the best way to seal up the intake. I've never run into an engine where the heads extend past the lifter valley. Will the undercut area require sealant? Should I run a small bead the length of the mating surface? Need advice from the pros.
     
  2. Mar 22, 2013
    Strawdawg

    Strawdawg New Member

    Eden, Tx
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    run a bead of silicone across each end with a bit more where the heads meet the block to make sure there is no hole for oil to escape. If this is the metal type gasket, put a thin smear of silicone on both sides of the gasket around the water ports and use something like Permatex Aviation sealer or Gascacinch around the intake ports on both sides.

    I have not done the 225 yet, but, I have done many a 231 turbo engine and the above works very well
     
  3. Mar 22, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Fiber and teflon intake gaskets with neoprene end seals. FelPro suggests adhesive. Any experience to compare both?
     
  4. Mar 22, 2013
    Strawdawg

    Strawdawg New Member

    Eden, Tx
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    Not sure that I understood, but lay the bead across the two ends. Don't use the neoprene as they sometimes wiggle out and/or leak at the tips.

    Felpro is not suggesting sealant on the ports in that case, I assume?
     
  5. Mar 22, 2013
    Project71-5

    Project71-5 BACON

    Gypsum, CO
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    I installed the intake gaskets dry. I thought that the adhesive was mentioned as a method of holding the gaskets in the proper position when setting the intake on. I had no issues aligning everything without it.

    As for the end seals, I put down a small bead of Gray RTV across the block with a bit more at each end where everything meets and then put on the end seals. I left the top of them dry except for a small amount of RTV on the ends. Just keep an eye on the end seals when torquing the intake down and watch for any seal distortion. Hopefully there aren't any leaks when I finally start the engine :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013
  6. Mar 23, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Reread the sheet and you are right Joe, just a little to hold them in place. I will probably run a small bead all the way across the ends as well. It isn't going to happen this weekend though. Cold and wet today, remaining cold tomorrow. I'm with the dude that wants to sue old Phil. Old rat doesn't know what he's talking about.
     
  7. Mar 23, 2013
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Don't know about the 225 specifically ... but the rubber end seals are typically a lot of trouble. Better to leave them off and seal the block ends with a bead of silicone (RTV). Ultra Black is good.
     
  8. Mar 23, 2013
    grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Anchorage, AK
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    Also a good idea. Will have to do some test fitting. May do that today.
     
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