Pertronix Installation 225 V6

So I got a Pertronix Ignitor and Flame Thrower coil. The instructions say to remove the distributor so that you can shim with provided washers to achieve the proper clearance between the module and the magnetic ring. I've never removed a distributor before and don't want to screw anything up. To install the shims, the distributor's drive gear needs to be removed. Is this gear pressed on? The instructions also show a roll pin going through the the shaft where the gear is. Can that pin be reused or would I need to get a new one? What is the best way to get the gear off and back on? I installed a Pertronix unit in a 1960 F100 years ago, but that was just a matter of removing the points and swapping in the electronic stuff...I don't remember anything in the instructions about having to remove the distributor. I removed the distributor cap on my V6 and pulled up on the shaft--there is a good bit of vertical play there, so I'm guessing I will have to install those shims. Can those of you who have done this upgrade offer any advice? Also, any tips, tricks, do's and don'ts regarding removal and reinstallation of the distributor would be greatly appreciated!

 

Its not hard, just make sure your at Top dead center on your timing then mark the position of your distributor housing for reinstall. You will notice the rotor shaft turns a bit when you pull out the distributor so you will have to account for that when reinstalling. I didnt change my roll pin and didn't have a problem, just put the gear back on the same way it came off.

 

Thanks Chuck...so the gear comes off easily?

 

yea it should not be to tight I didnt need a puller, if i remember right i just tapped it off

 

69willys I'm really interested in this upgrade, in fact the other day I was going to call the company to get the part number. Anyways please give details on how you like and ease of install when you finish.

 

I'll be happy to. And remember, if I can do it successfully, anyone can!

 

And photos please

 

You only need to add shims if the play is excessive. Mine was within spec and did not need to be shimmed. I marked both the distributor to engine position and rotor to distributor (at both installed and removed). When I reinstalled, I just lined up the marks for distributor to engine orientation as well as "after removed". After the distributor was seated, the "installed" marks lined up so I knew everything had gone back correctly.

 

I've been researching this a little before I start the work. If I understand correctly, I don't necessarily need to find Top Dead Center on the compression stroke to do this. If I mark the distributor housing in relation to the block, intake, wherever--and then mark the orientation of the rotor in relation to the distributor housing (both in its installed position and after it turns while being lifted out) I should be good, right? As long as I don't crank the motor once the distributor is out. Please don't take this as asking for advice and then questioning it...it's just that I'll be doing this by myself and if I can skip the additional step of finding TDC it will make it that much faster & easier. Does it need to be at TDC or is it just good practice to do it that way?

JAlves...sounds like you did it without being at TDC...?

 

Don't need to be TDC if you don't move the engine after removal. If you do exactly as you posted above, you will be in fine shape. Good luck.

 

Got 'er done! You guys were right, it wasn't difficult. Here are Pertronix part numbers for others considering doing this upgrade:

I ordered mine from Summit.


That's the 40,000 volt, 3 ohm, epoxy-filled coil. The first thing I did was disconnect the negative battery cable. Then I pretty much just followed the instructions that came in the box. Except where it says, "remove distributor". That's where ECJ5 came in, and that turned out to be a piece of cake. If I could offer any of you guys at my limited skill level any advice, it would be to just go for it! Like I said before, if I can do it anyone can!

One odd thing I ran into though was the distributor hold down. I should've taken a photo of it, but it looked kinda like a rocker arm with a bolt going through it, which kinda made me wonder if a previous owner had "Bubba'd" something there. I have another 225 I got off Craigslist and that hold down is different--sort of a 2-fingered prong type thing. Anyway, it seems to be doing its job...

So I got everything back together and it started right up and idles fine, but I think the timing is off just a little. I don't have a timing light yet, so I hooked up a vaccuum gauge and turned the distributor until I got maximum vacuum, about 18-19". Then I took it for a ride. I'm pretty sure it still needs some adjusting, as I can hear some pinging when pulling a nearby grade that I diidn't hear before. It seems to run "smoother" than before, and I'm convinced that when I get the timing just right, there will be a definite difference...I also need to replace the cap and rotor and I want to put new plugs in it. I took a short video of the vacuum gauge for you experts to look at--it's bouncing a little--what does it tell you?

http://69cj5.shutterfly.com/


Hope that link works...thanks for your help!

 

nope you dont, you can pull it fron any position just as long as you put it back in that position. it only takes a minute to get it at TDC so time isnt a factor. If your new to this type of work it just makes you a little more comfortable IMO . you will have to set the timing anyway after your done. I always do it just out of habit.

 

If you are concerned about that slight bounce in the vacuum needle then do a compression test. You didn't say what the rpm is when test was made but if it's idle 650-700 then it could be due to a cylinder compression difference-a lifter hanging-worn valve guide etc. Google vacuum gauge reading and check it out. Really looks pretty good to me but your timing being off will also effect the reading.

 

Congrats, I hope that you are half as happy with yours as I am with mine. I had a similar problem when I first started it up too, it seemed that I just couldn't get the timing right. Then I read a post on here by Patrick who said that there was a bad batch of magnet rings and that you need to turn the magnet ring around 180 degrees. I did and have never had another problem.

 

Interesting. When you installed yours, did the magnetic ring have this notch on the outside of it? That's not a very good photo, but you can see the notch just above and in line with that stud. The instructions specifically say that, with the 1165 kit, you need to orient that notch close to the square hole in the advance mechanism, opposite the round hole (the holes that index the rotor), so the ring is only meant to go one way. I'm just wondering if Pertronix adressed the issue by adding that notch and, also if the oddfire characteristic of this motor requires that the ring go in a certan way? I'm going to buy a timing light in the next few days-- and then I'll have a few more questions for you guys...

 

It's been a couple of years since I converted mine, so some details are kinda fuzzy. I do remember reading in the instructions about orienting the ring with the round and square holes in the centrifugal advance mechanism. And yes, with the oddfire motor it does matter how the ring is oriented. I remember that the ring fit equally well either way physically, but when it was installed according to the instructions even when I adjusted the timing with a light and had it set correctly it just never felt as though the timing was correct. I even tried adding a few degrees either way from the recommended setting. It wasn't until I turned the ring opposite the way the instructions said that it started running the way I expected. Although, I think you may have a different magnet ring because I believe that mine was white.

 

Disaster! While tinkering with the timing I stripped the distributor hold down bolt. Damn! A previous owner had this thing in there...looks like a rocker arm--to hold it down. That other piece is what I took off of the other 225 in my garage. It allows the bolt head to bottom out. I don't think I would've stripped it if the bolt head was bottomed out...double damn. Guess I'll try tapping it...bummer...

 

Helicoil time...
I have seen both styles of holddown clamps on different 225 engines.

Don

 

yea mine has the rocker arm lookin holddown

 

So it is a factory style holddown...guess that means I can't use the old "previous owner effed it up" card after all . I must've reefed on it way too hard. Oh well, just gotta fix it now with a helicoil. I'm gonna have to remove the distributor again to do that so I'll try flipping the magnet ring around as I couldn't seem to get the timing quite right. Stay tuned for further amusement.