A few transfer case questions

I'm in the middle of rebuilding my transfer case (dana 18)

my first question is the shaft attached to the speedometer gear is slightly bent is this fine? Would this be the reason why I have snapped three cables? It also smelled of burning oil? which is strange cause I always keep the case full of oil. I did put new seal in it about 4 months ago.


my next question is my transfer case pan is not perfectly straight. with a straight edge on it has a .60 of a gap from bolt hole to bolt hole. Would you say this is acceptable or should I hit the bolt holes with a hammer and dolly to knock them down. Possibly send it down a little with a piece of sand paper around flat metal or glass?

I keep looking but whats the best way to pull that bronze bushing in the output shaft? search function is showing me the engine pilot bushing and factory service manual isn't saying anything about it...except it exist in the diagram


I have never had one of these seals before and not sure how it goes? there is two, I know were they go just not how (order)

 

1) yep, that would most definately take out the speedo cable-you will probably need a new gear but someone might be able to true it using a lathe-not cost effective however and it could break at the bend.

2) If you are careful, you can thump the lip level on the t-case pan. If you have a table saw, mill, or something else with a good true surface, use it to check as you are working on it. One place the cast aluminum/Novak pans really are better.

3) Not exactly sure what I am looking at-felt? If so, installs behind the companion flange.

 

If the gaskets are paper they go under the input and output shaft seals.

 

Thanks guys,
That helps with the paper gaskets.

I will try tapping the bolt holes on the table saw.

Not sure how one could use a lathe on the speedo cable gear, top part of shaft is bent it goes in hole and spins but you can tell its bent.

Any ideas about the bronze bushing, I was reading about someone reamed it out?

 

I didn't mean to infer the use the "true" surface to beat it out on-just as a means to check when you get the rails flat. Back it up with a flat body dolly or BFG, or something like a 1" thick piece of bar stock.


Bushing in the front output shaft? I usually just run a tap of the appropriate size (just large enough to get a grip on the bushing) and just keep turning when it hits bottom. So far, 100% successful. Very similar to removing a pilot bushing in the crank.

 

Duffer: alright, haha I thought that was kinda weird. Good thing I'm slow going and haven't got around to it yet. Makes since though using a table saw or something to check for the pan to be straight, it will be allot easier then using straight edge.

Using a tap to remove bushing sounds like a good idea, guess I will be looking for one that size.


So nickmil, if you don't use the paper gasket, or the felt seal for the out puts. what do you do? do you use any sealer or something?

 

Hello I have replaced several output shaft bushing. You will need metal lathe, drill press, 11/16 drill bit, 5/8 reamer and bushing driver. Measure bushing depth in OP shaft. Chuck OP shaft in lathe or DP vise, bore old bushing out with 11/16 drill bit. Make bushing driver (3/4" shaft turned down to .610 for about 1". Press bushing in to measured depth. Chuck OP shaft in lathe and zero. Ream with 5/8" reamer. I have tried many different ways to ream bushing and this is the only one that worked for me. Or send to Novak and have them do it. Bill

 

I very carefully bent the speedo gear tip back with a vice and rubber mallet, it appears to spin straight now. But I will write down the speedo gear part number before I assemble,


As for the bushing I'm going to try using a tap, I no longer have the access to a lathe. I could harass one of the machine shops around here to do it if the tap doesn't work.

 

As for the bushing I'm going to try using a tap, I no longer have the access to a lathe. I could harass one of the machine shops around here to do it if the tap doesn't work.[/QUOTE]

if it isnt to worn dont monkey with it, its really a pain plain an simple

 

Is there a measurement for what would be considered acceptable wear? I was under the impression that one of these cases could be rebuilt on the bench with no special tools really needed. Kinda glad I haven't started mine yet.

 

measure the new one's id against the old one, i dont know what the acceptable amount would be but that is the only part that is hard to put in by the time i got mine in i had to hone it to get it to fit.

 

Hello again I would advise to read Novaks guide on rebuilding dana 18 TC. If your front yoke has any movement up and down or sideways your front bearing and bushing are most likely worn out. Novak specs say .628 ID but I use a 5/8" (.625) reamer and it fits good. I tried having bushing honed with a pin hone but there is not enough room and it will bottom out. Hope this helps. Bill

 

So, today, I go out to the garage with my new to me dial caliper to measure the ID of the bushing in the output shaft. The flippin' caliper just barely, barely, catches the edge of the bushing. Not enough for me to get a good measurement. Figures, right? Just my luck. Anyway, I have several output shafts laying on the bench from the cases I took apart. Decided to use Nick's test fir on the bench method. I put the output clutch shaft into the bushing on the output shaft I was planning to use. Whoa! Real sloppy. Repeated this with the rest of the shafts. Found one that seems fairly decent. I guess I'll use that output shaft instead.

I then slid the new bushing, that came in my rebuild kit, onto all of the clutch shafts. It's not a super tight fit on any of them. Not much tighter than the parts I will be using, mentioned in the previous paragraph. I think it will be fine. I don't suppose the clutch shafts usually wear since they ride in that bronze bushing (the planned wear part).

I think I'm finally just about ready to begin reassembly of this dog.

 

Ok. That makes sense. Wonder if, while I'm this close, if I should just grit my teeth and go ahead with the new bushing. Maybe I could have the guy at the machine shop measure the bushing in the "good" shaft and see what is really going on. Then decide how to proceed.