fiberglass tube mounting

Ive done the searching and reading, now I'm on to the actual mounting. Ive got a 73 frame with a T176 Dana 300 in her and glass tube of unknown make and vintage. Ive got her set on the frame with the recommended 2 1/8" mounts.
I could use some mesurments from u guys. If anyone has this set up and could tell me how far from the front edge of the tube to the center of the first mounting point is I would appreciate it. Also could use how much space u have between the motor and fire wall.
Right now what seems to be right with the fenders and grill mocked up I'm hitting the bell housing just ever so slightly. Thanks all

 

I don't have measurements, but the firewall will just clear the back of the engine by very little. Mine sets back maybe 3/8th inch!

 

When I mounted my tub a few years ago I lined up the rear of the tub flush with the rear crossmember of the frame. Then measure each side off the frame till centered. The firewall is about 3/8 from the valve cover. You may look at adding a 1/4 in. to your mounts. You don't want the tub to touch the bellhousing . Also look at your motor mounts. You may be able to lower them a bit. I found that being flush in the rear will line up the hood, fenders, and grill. Remember to add a body mount under the grill. You may have to fab up a mount for the front body mount to the tub.

 

Good call on the motor mounts Rusty. Didn't think of that one. Ya I mocked up for the grill mount at the same time as the body. Right now ive got about 1/2" between the valve cover and firewall. I WOULD REALLY prefer not to add anymore height to the body to clear the bell housing but if I need it I will. I'm only catching 1 fin on the bell housing so as a bad idea running through my head I'm thinking of just cutting it off. Also if I lined the tube up with rear most cross member I would be way into my motor. Thanks for your info guys...

 

Has your frame been shortened in the back ? Seems like every 5 tub I've seen has been pretty much flush in the back. Maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 inch one way or the other.

 

Nope hasn't been shortened and this is the third 73-74 I've had and all 3 have hung over a inch, inch and a half or so. Maybe it's just been dumb luck for the good or bad.

Well there cut and temporarly in. I went with 2 1/8" total height and I've gota say I really hate the looks of body lifts. Besides the fact that I'm now sitting oh 7-10 above stock. 33" tires, 4" skyjacker, 1 1/2" shackles, and now 1 5/8" body. I'm not going to lie its going to look bad *** but probably a bit to much. Just for the curiosity what's your guys door threshold height. Right now mines measuring 36 1/2".

 

Hum i don't know what you will do with the jeep but did you think about a sub-frame like i did on mine. Oem body have some king of sub-frame and all the after-market fiberglass i seen doesn't have any. While off-roading last year the floor around the mount where doing some king of waving. I fab this (see picture) so now there is no more movement on the floor and it stiffen the frame a lot without any need to box it. Also i made custom braket for the body mount because mine were a pile of rust.

 

Johney, do you have any more picts of your subframe? How you attached them to frame body mounts specifically. But any picts would help.

 

Hum i just pass a bolt trought everything

 

I use a 1/2 bolt with a poly spacer. No need to get too fancy.

Unlike steel fiberglass will tolerate a little flexing with out cracking.

 

Hum seem you have a frame you fab yourself, why i fab a sub-frame is to stiffen the frame (oem body have a sub-frame) and overcome the waving on the floor.