CJ 3b buying advice

I found a cj3b that I might be interested in buying. The owner says he got the jeep from arizona and has painted it but done no mechanical. The owner said the main problem is that the clutch is sticking. I was able to test drive the jeep and the clutch indeed seems to be sticking as I had to start it in gear to keep from grinding. I guess the advice I'm looking for is what to look for what to stay away from etc when looking at a flatie? I'm familiar with cj5's and cj7's but not 3b's. Would it be advisable to do a compression test prior to purchasing?

 

Looks great - I'd buy it.

Are you really worried that it might need some work? Maybe old cars are not for you.

It's basically the same drive train as a CJ-5. I'd look for lots of bondo in the body, obvious patches, broken frame, etc. Usual stuff.

 

Always a crap shoot with these things but, yea, if he'll let you do a compression test, it couldn't hurt. The more he'll let you check, the better. The body looks great. Use a magnet (covered with a thin rag so as not to scratch the new paint or upset the owner) to check for bondo. Gauges all work? Pull all the fill plugs and check the fluid levels and condition, looking for water contamination (muddy looking gear oil). Goes through all the gears good, all transfer case ranges?
May just need the clutch linkage adjusted.

 

I like Cj3b's. This one looks nice in the photos, but have you crawled underneath? You can learn a lot just sliding around under looking up, see what is rusted, what is dripping, what is modified, etc. Even if you have to pull the tranny to fix the clutch, its not that big of deal on a jeep.

 

looks alot better than my 3b! i hate to ask what the price is though. i'd defiantly get it, looks like its all there and in good shape.

 

I am not worried about my mechanical skills I just wanted some advice in general from 3b owners. Advice like inspect the rivets on the front frame rails they are prone to cause cracking etc. Thanks for your feedback though.

Here are a couple more photos.

 

Price? Looks like a very clean jeep.

 

The price is around 3500 I was going to offer less and see where it goes.

 

What Tim said. They rust out in the same places as the CJ5's-check hat channels, sills, tool box, rear tub mounts and spare tire bracket for starters. They also have the same dual plate rear frame cross member that likes to collect moisture and rust through. Fenders usually survive the rust, just get beat up and usually have a few stress cracks. Looks like some engine work was done unless someone just painted the valve cover for fun. Clutch may just be rusted up from sitting but check the linkage, especially the bell crank. Sometimes the rod holes are decidedly oval and you may be getting enough slop for it to not totally disengage.

I used to think the high hood and subsequent somewhat impaired visibility was a problem, but after driving the JK, I have to say the 3B is better. The looks sort of grow on you-wouldn't trade mine for a low hood, even if I could get everything I have under the hood of a 2A, 3A, etc.

 

If all you can see wrong is a cracked w/shield, and it is the modern frame but vac
wipers I think $3500.00 is a fair price. But like they said, check for bondo NOW, before
you buy it. Don't know where you are but in the rust belt this would be a great deal.
I'm used to looking at AZ and CA Jeeps with no rust. It looks clean from the pic's.

 

Thanks for all the great advice guys. This site is a great resource.

 

I was at the DVM last week trying to get the J3000 title squared away (successful) so was looking at the NADA blue book for a grin, but -wow. Good condition (pristine ?) 3B for 20k, CJ 5 not far behind at something like 19.6k. As in LUDICROUS.

Just old and out of touch with reality, I guess.

 

I think nada is ludicrous. Say I was over in Bozeman in late August near Bozeman hot springs I say a greenish j truck for sale by the road any chance it was yours?

 

No, the J20 was white over red, the J3000, all red. Still waiting for a call from the buyer wanting me to buy them back after Dark Horse Customs gives him the estimate for getting them back on the road. As I told him, PARTS VEHICLES!



Whhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

 

isnt that open vacuum line gunna cause some problems?

 

There is no connection on the valve cover either so I'm going to guess that open tube is now the crankcase vent and no longer hooked up on the other end. I think it is probably safe to say the PCV system is non-functional.