Original steering column P/S conversion

I'm in the planning process of a saginaw p/s conversion on my 64 Cj6 and would like to use my original column. In a resent JP mag article they used the o.g. Column from their early Cj & connected it to a collapsible D shaft with a u-joint, Summit p/n Fla-fr1750. I've removed my column & shaft from the Ross gear box. On the end of the shaft is the worm gear. I'm wondering if I leave the worm on and attach the u-joint below that or do I remove the worm gear or is there any other modification I need to do? Or maybe they had a different column. I dont want to buy the $65 u-joint untill i know it will work. Some pics of how it's done would be awesome.

 

Advanced adapters in California has a kit to retofit to saginaw P/steering. You can use the original shaft and column. You have to remove the worm gear, then turn the shaft to accept the u-joint Advanced sell. I would have a machnist do this. The instructions to do this is on the Advanced Adapters website. Gonna run you about 1K to do do the retofit. But it is worth the investment. No more slop and play in the old push pull steering system on the 1941-1971 Jeep, which is primitive at best. Lots of luck

 

you need to cut the worm gear part off, cut the column tube to lenght. then get a bronze bushing from advance adapters. the bushing supports the inner shaft inside the outer tube.

 

I'm using a stock CJ3B column and saginaw power steering. I don't remember how all the stock components are supposed to fit together, but here's what I did:
The metal I'm holding represents the floorboard; the shaft bearing to the left gets pressed into the column. I'm using the spring and a clamp on the shaft to push up against the washer. That will tension the inner shaft and keep it from having free play up and down. I can adjust the location of the clamp as needed. The u-joint will be a bit below the clamp.


This seems to be working for me. I just bled the power steering yesterday and test drove it today. The spring is not really compressed, just snug to give resistance to the up and down movement that would otherwise be there.
On the top end I'm using a quick release coupler for the steering wheel.

I can't tell you this is the "right way", it's just how I went about it for my trail rig.

 

Thanks for the info guys. That spreads some light.