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should I get a custom pitman arm

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 57cj5, Apr 13, 2012.

  1. Apr 13, 2012
    57cj5

    57cj5 Member

    North Carolina
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2005
    Messages:
    593
    My 57 has Herm's reverse Ford steering set up and I am running a 3 inch BD lift. The original setup had the drag link crossing over the tie rod in order to connect to the front part of the rod end. I did not notice any binding while driving, but did notice some scraping on the tie rod. I switched the tie rod to the front mount and the drag link to the side mount (facing the other tie rod end). However, since I added a steering stabilizer, I have noticed the bracket that mounts to the tie rod will hit the drag link as the suspension compresses because of the way the drag link comes in proximity to the mounting bracket. Question though, would a custom pitman arm that drops just a tad to lessen the drag link angle and extends out, say 3 inches or so, to bring the drag link in front of the tie rod work? That way I could put the drag link back to the front of the tie rod and mount it so there won't be any hitting of the stabilizer bracket on the drag link.
    Thanks,
    Paul

    drag link crossing over in initial setup before switching end arrangement

    [​IMG][/IMG]



    drag link behind the tie rod after switching the setup

    [​IMG][/IMG]

    [​IMG][/IMG]


    some views to get an idea where the pitman ends drag link angle, and the mount of the stabilizer

    [​IMG][/IMG]

    [​IMG][/IMG]

    [​IMG][/IMG]

    [​IMG][/IMG]
     
  2. Apr 13, 2012
    AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2003
    Messages:
    1,035
    Great looking rig. That steering setup is tight. I also had troubles getting my steering to fit.

    To your question about getting the custom pitman arm that "extends out, say 3 inches or so" I would have to say that it may solve one problem and create another. If your pitman arm were 3" longer that would greatly affect your steering ratio.

    I ended up with a dana 30 that has two holes instead of using the tie rod with the hole. That moves drag link out away from the axle.

    What about doing the tie rod flip? Wouldn't that clean up the angles and give you room? Search goferit.

    GL
     
  3. Apr 13, 2012
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,473
    You can also find knuckles with the double hole for the 25/27s (I think I have 2 out in the shop).
     
  4. Apr 13, 2012
    n6ifp

    n6ifp Member

    San Bruno/...
    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2004
    Messages:
    206
    Do a tie rod flip. That will move right tie rod to the top of the housing. You can get a double tierod from speedway with double tapers. you can also get bushings for the housing to allow the tireod to be installed from the top.
     
  5. Apr 13, 2012
    57cj5

    57cj5 Member

    North Carolina
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2005
    Messages:
    593
    If I do a tie rod flip, that moves the long tie rod up to where it is just about touching the pitman arm. I have a stock shackle reverse, so as the suspension compresses it will move that rod into the pitman arm, hitting it. The way it looks to me, and I am by far no expert in suspension, is I either have to
    1) move the whole drag link in front of the tie rod so it can connect to the front facing hole of the double hole rod end and then reconnect the long rod to the hole on the end of the rod end

    or

    2) somehow retaper the hole located closer to the knuckle on the double hole rod end so that I can connect the drag link to the back side of the rod end (side facing the shock). That would be a tight fit next to the shock and all.

    seems like moving the drag link forward may not solve the angle issue, but it will prevent the hitting of suspension parts. Any local suspension experts want to look at it?

    How much change in steering ratio would moving the pitman arm 3 inches more create? Does that just mean more turns of the wheel to turn it?
    Looking at the long tie rod, it is connected to the driver's side by a ball joint, to the pass. side by a ball joint. Any issues with this setup? The drag link is connected to pass side via just screwing into the rod end, and the pitman arm via a ball joint. Does it matter which ends are attached via a ball joint?

    would it be possible to move the long tie rod out forward more?
     
  6. Apr 13, 2012
    willswilly

    willswilly New Member

    Northern New Jersey
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2008
    Messages:
    41
    I added the 5 degree shims to the front axle to get the extra 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch clearence for the tie rod. They worked out great and actually curred the darting I was getting after the 2.5 inch lift that was added. I think one of the sponsers here on ecj5 makes and sells them for the early narrow springs! I think his username is mcruff, but I could be wrong! Do a search on (caster shims).

    Just noticed the reversed shackles!! you may want to measure your caster to see if the shims would be beneficial to your setup! As I said they worked out great on my 58 with the shackles up front.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2012
  7. Apr 13, 2012
    willswilly

    willswilly New Member

    Northern New Jersey
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2008
    Messages:
    41
    A tie rod flip like 57cj5 suggested may work as well but your shock mounts may need a little fab work as well. Looks a little close on top!
     
  8. Apr 14, 2012
    windyhill

    windyhill Sponsor

    PA
    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2006
    Messages:
    1,502
    I wouldn't do a flip, I did it on my cj6 and it made more issues with the shocks etc., you are correct that it will also put it really close to the pitman.
     
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