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AMC V8 accelerator cable

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by nwedgar, Mar 6, 2012.

  1. Mar 6, 2012
    nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    Newnan, Georgia
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    Oct 26, 2005
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    1,785
    Anyone with an AMC V8...do your cable look like this? It has a twist coming out of the firewall before it gets to the bracket on the engine...almost like it's too long.

    I think it might be binding the gas pedal a bit since the cable is slow to return, another cause for me to not being able to set the curb idle at first.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Mar 6, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    Feb 14, 2010
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    My cable is longer and does a complete loop on itself between the firewall and bracket.
     
  3. Mar 7, 2012
    mstrnater

    mstrnater Sponsor

    Dillon, MT
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    Mar 4, 2012
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    X2.... full loop..approx.5-6 inches in diameter.
     
  4. Mar 7, 2012
    nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    Newnan, Georgia
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    Oct 26, 2005
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    Really? Are yours aftermarket for the Intermediate? Does it effect how the idle returns?
     
  5. Mar 7, 2012
    jeepcj

    jeepcj Member

    cincy, Ohio
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    Aug 23, 2009
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    Mine was long also. I pulled that clip that hooks to the bracket off of the cable casing, unhooked it at the peddle pulled the cable out of the casing and cut it, used a cut off wheel and cut through the cable casing, put it back together and no more too long cable. I can see your return spring under your cable looks like it may have straightend alittle, may not be pulling your throttle back to idle position all the way. Try reshaping it, or even shorten it alittle.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2012
  6. Mar 7, 2012
    nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    Newnan, Georgia
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2005
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    1,785
    I actually have two springs attached, just for redundancy. I will take another look at the hook though, I see what you mean.
     
  7. Mar 7, 2012
    CJ Joe

    CJ Joe Truckhaven Tough!

    Pinon Hills, CA
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    Nov 9, 2002
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    390
    It is intended to be long to allow for movement of the engine, tub and frame. It you cut it short other problems will develop. A full loop would be most correct from a design standpoint.
     
  8. Mar 7, 2012
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Aug 10, 2003
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    I'd replace it. Most of these are available from your FLAPS.

    They tend to wear the cable on the sheath, esp. if it has a tight bend. Even, large radius bends are what you want. The cable frays internally and no longer slides easily. I'd replace it.
     
  9. Mar 7, 2012
    my73cj5

    my73cj5 Member

    Monroe, CT
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    Aug 7, 2007
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    126
    mine is a loop as well, just replaced it about two months ago, same as the old one, just needed to zip tie where it crosses itself back to the carb, works fine
     
  10. Mar 8, 2012
    nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    Newnan, Georgia
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    Oct 26, 2005
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    Thanks. I'll get one on order. The way it is now is causing the gas pedal to stay down just a bit...giving me fits on trying to set the idle. Once I figured it out I moved the carb lever by hand all the way to the idle screw.
     
  11. Mar 16, 2012
    OleBlue

    OleBlue Sponsor

    Tennessee
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    Feb 14, 2010
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    Since I've installed an aluminum intake and carb adapter, my cable is at a little different angle from the bracket to the carb. The part of the sheath on the end, where it overlaps the portion that comes out of the bracket, sometimes binds. It binds when getting on the throttle because the sheath is trying to slip over the stationary part at the bracket. Can I trim some of the sheath to prevent the binding and run a naked section of cable between the bracket and carb?
     
  12. Mar 17, 2012
    jeepcj

    jeepcj Member

    cincy, Ohio
    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2009
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    601
    If you trim it, use electrical tape on it and cut through the tape to prevent fraying. I shorted my whole cable and sheath leaving a couple inches for movement and have had no problems.
     
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