Head returned from milling - new questions!

Hi all

OK so I went to the most well reputed machinist for miles, he charged me $65 to mill the head and had it done within the week. Got it back this AM, he said in order to get a really clean un-pitted surface he had to go down to "about 10/1000ths" He also said the head had definitely been milled before.

I raised an eyebrow and said, "Wow really? Ten one thousandths? Sounds like a lot for a head that's already been milled." He laughed and said "Not for something like that! Should not be a problem at all, and your compression will go up. It's really not that much... If it was a new car I'd be concerned about that much milling but for what you've got it is not a problem."

So it is the second milling and it just lost another 10/1000ths. Think I am in good shape or in trouble??
This guy has done Austin Healeys Lotuses VWs giant V8s and tractor motors for friends of mine so I trust him but just wondering what the hardcore jeep guys think?

It LOOKS great! I will post a pic or two...

 

That'd be .010". As a machinist (not automotive) with 4 wheeled stuff as a hobby, I'd say no problem. Normal human hair is .003-.004, so a few hairs? I think you'll be fine. Should still have low enough compression to run ok on pee from the morning after a night drinking.

 

LOL OK cool I figured 10/1000 ain't that much but still...I am not interested in having stuff banging into things due to a low ceiling!

 

Are you worried about interference, or about the compression ratio? The compression ratio is very low to begin with, and I expect you can use all the increase in compression that you can manage.

Re interference, I'm sure this will not a problem with this engine. If you worry, get some Plasticine clay at your local arts/crafts supply and put a line of it on top of each piston and between the valves and head. Then put the head on and torque it down with the old gasket. Turn it over slowly with a wrench on the crank bolt. Disassemble and measure the thickness of the clay. The clearance will be the measured thickness.

 

All I want to say is stamp your VIN numbers back on the block before you put it together or you won't bee able to, thats the way it came new.

 

RE Tim's comment, yeah I was worried about clearance of pistons and exhaust valves. I get now that even 10/1000ths is so small hat it is prob not an issue.

RE Dingado, I am not sure what you mean about stamping the VIN numbers back on?

 

Originally the vin of the F134 was stamped at the front of the block under the water pump and can't be stamped after assembly. Thats where you get your second set of no.s
for a lost title or colector plates.