F- Head head-bolt tightening pattern and torque numbers plus more!

Hi all,

Well the head is getting milled as we speak and I got the top end gasket kit from Walck's so I am just about ready to get this thing back together.

So I am curious if there is a listing somewhere of the headbolt tightening pattern and what torque numbers I am supposed to apply as I tighten this thing back down?

Guessing that there is a gradual torque for each rotation through the head bolts? Do it once to 40lbs/ft then again to 85lbs/ft or something like that?

Also, I need to get the exhaust manifold off, one nut came off just fine the other 3 are a rusty disaster so I am curious about the shafts they are on.

Are the shafts that come out of the block on which the nuts are located threaded into the block? I am afraid of snapping these things off but if I cut them off can I then replace the shafts that come out of the block? Or is this a case of "break em and yer screwed..." I've lubed and heated, so far no luck.....I have a grand history of shearing off rusted nuts....so just curious what the CW is on this one.


Thanks as usual!!!

 

For the head-- start in the very center bolt & work your way to the outside, opposing bolts as you go.

The manual reads "torque to 60-70 ft.lbs". I just did mine last week.

There is a diagram in the manual which gives a sequence. I do not think it is SUPER critical to follow it, just something to keep in mind. I tighten them up in that fashion with a ratchet, so they are nice & snug, and then go back & hit them with the torque wrench.

What I think is more critical is re-torquing them after a 100 miles or so.





Good luck on the build!

 

The studs for the exhaust are threaded into the block. Several of them go into the water jacket too, so if you replace those they need sealer. If your luck is like mine, they will break off. Try to cut/split the nuts off if you can, but you may find the stud itself is corroded too. Replace the nuts with brass ones. If you break the studs off, try a left handed drill bit, slow and steady.

 

broke two off on the motor I'm trying to make leak free to replace the other leaker in my A1. I put a washer over the stud and welded the stud to the washer then
welded a nut to the washer and turned the broken stud out. Also had to too loose to torq up so I had the heli-coil them. Got to instal my first rear main rope
seal today, about 2 hours work, find out mon or tue if I did a good job.

 

Hmm or I could bag it and leave the damned manifold on!

 

Unless the manifold gaskets are leaking, leaving the manifold alone is probably the best choice.

 

Well the problem here is the gasket at the manifold to downpipe IS leaking but the manifold to block is not, BUT I cannot get the down pipe to break free from the bottom of the manifold so I was going to try to pull off the block to loose them up....may redouble my efforts to break the downpipe free and leave the manifold on.

 

if & when you get them out-- replace them with some ARP stainless studs-- super strong, look good, and last forever!



I get them from Totally Stainless

 

If you haven't broken any studs on the down pipe oops should be only one heat up the nut after cleaning all the rust off the exposed threads and quench it with a spray bottle
of water it will break up the rust. Mite take a couple of tries. If that doesn't work go to the manifold and try the same method,heat the manifold red hot at the stud and quench it . I've removed removed a lot of studs that way but
if you can get the nut off usually the threads a good for another round.