66 CJ5 Rebuild

I kept the steering box in the same location because that's where the PO had it. I did contemplate moving it, but everything worked well in its current location. If I get a lot of rock abuse I can make a small skid plate for it

 

There you go very nice job on everything.I was wondering what your front end was a 27 ?

 

Nice, nice work there! Great pics to!

 

Lots of goodies this go-around
I will start with the new front driveline...Since I added a D30 to my Jeep I needed the larger style yokes. These are the 1310 size yokes that also match the rear axle. I found a used driveline from a YJ and it was really long, so time to cut away. I cut a small portion of the driveline along with the “weld yoke,” then I cut the weld in a lathe (easier than cut-off wheel). After the weld yoke was free, I cut about 9 inches from the driveline. Clean, grind, align...and blam-o new driveline. New u-joints and paint of course.

 

How about some clutch action!.....This little number was inspired by Advance Adapters.
I know there is mixed emotions with the chain clutch control, but I decided to give it a try. Besides, the original style setup was in need of a tuneup and this route turned out to be cheaper.
First, I started at Amazon and grabed one of these, it already has a bronze bushing pressed in
#40 chain and master links
Small heim joint (I had a 3/8 size laying around)
Reuse old cable that attaches to clutch fork.
3” wide by 1/4” thick cold rolled steel and 7 1/2” long.

Here are the small threaded bungs that I made using 1/2” solid round stock. I cut to 1.5 inches long, then milled two flat spots to fit inside of the master links. Small hole for the master link and then threaded the opposite end for the heim joint and cable.







I needed to raise the sprocket a pinch so that there would be clearance when the chain is on. I machined a small washer for the sprocket to sit on. I suppose a guy could use a few washers instead. 1/2” hole to match the hole in the sprocket.



The 3” wide plate is bent and wraps under the frame rail. I bent this one at 40* and used two 7/16 bolts to attach it. The sprocket is held in place with a 1/2” bolt and a metal lock nut to keep it snug, but free enough to move easy.



So far the setup works great and the clutch is operational. I may make a cover for the sprocket in the future.

 

Next up is the transmission cross-member. This is my favorite part
I started with 1.5 inch 1/8” thick DOM tubing. I matched the general shape and dimensions of the original x-member and had my way with the tubing bender.



I needed a way to attach the new x-member to the frame, so I made these.





The transmission mount didn't line up in the middle of the two tubes (like I planned), so I used my plasma cutter and some square tubing to remedy the situation.





Some flat plate and some end caps helped clean up the design.







Next on the list was the transfer case mount. Made from 1.5 inch round tubing and some flat plate.





The end result...















Ooh yeah.....The gas tank skid plate is shinny with paint

 

I used the AA chain clutch for awhile. It worked well for me. Nice job on that by the way. Like your Xmember too. Please tell that's not a pink engine hoist in the background.

 

Thanks John, and yes, that there is a pink engine hoist. My shop is an equal opportunity environment, especially when the tools are free

 

Wow, you oughta have a TV show with that fab work. Very nice.

 

Nice work. I see why the cross member is your favorite.

 

OK, given the scope and quality of the work you are doing you've earned a pass on the pink hoist.

 

I made a flywheel dust cover from 16 gauge steel...This one is considerably better than the original warped version.



Here are the pics of my exhaust system. Originally I was going to complete the exhaust system myself, but after I contacted the local exhaust shop, they gave me a price I couldn't pass up. I would have spent about $175 on all the parts from Summit. They charged me $250 for everything. Overall I am happy with their work. I told them exactly how i wanted the exhaust routed and they where able to make it work. The muffler is blocking the rear brake line, but in the rare case that I need to remove the rubber hose, I can lower the exhaust.





















I made some heat shields to protect the rear brake hose and a small portion of the fuel line that comes close to the exhaust.

 

NIce! That's the first front dump exhaust I've seen that works with the Saginaw steering.

 

Very nice job. Guess I need to work on my TIG welding. I am very proficient at touching the electrode and shocking the hell out of myself.

 

Or touching the Tungsten to the metal while welding, which results in more time grinding the Tungsten sharp again. TIG is not for the patience challenged folks

 

Do you grind sharpen or use chemical dip? I have been doing the chemical dip and has worked well. I have never tried the other.

 

Time for a little body work. And when I say a little I mean a whole bunch. I started with the driver side wheel well. The PO used a BFH to "adjust" the wheel well and allow for his seat to move aft a few inches I drilled out all the spot welds with a 1/4" drill bit, ground a few small welds and then cut out the pieces. I used the passenger side as a way to take measurements and help me make new parts. I prepped the driver side with a hammer and dolly to straighten some of the edges prior to placing the new parts on.







New bits

 

Next up is the corner piece for the wheel well. Again, I used the passenger side as a reference. Turned out darn good

 

How about some super thick Bondo!! This is the worst section on the tub aside from the wheel well. This took about 45 minutes to sand all the Bondo down and figure out what I had to work with. Not sure what kind of massacre happened here, but it's ugly. I cut out a large section and I will add a new plate with a few less holes in it. R) More to come!





Chunk of Bondo

 

I had a similar issue on that side of my tub. That brace is for the original spare tire carrier. You may also find some interesting stuff below and in front of the door openings.


Are you doing this build as a restoration? Just curious why you didn't do the wheelhouse notch since you had to redo that area anyway.