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1969 CJ5 project

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by alex211, Oct 4, 2009.

  1. bkap

    bkap Gone, but not long gone.

  2. alex211

    alex211 Member

    Ok. I think I'm just going to pick up the air shears and see how nice they work.
     
  3. alex211

    alex211 Member

    I ordered the electric metal shear from harbor freight, and I got the bead roller today.

    It needs re-enforced with some square tubing, it flexes badly. I plan on making a nice stand when ever I can get some steel.

    [​IMG]

    I spent a little time and made a template for the front of the windshield, it's exactly half of it. Should take to much more to make ones for the other to pieces of sheet metal.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. bkap

    bkap Gone, but not long gone.

    I have the bead roller, as well, but have only used it on aluminum. It hasn't flexed enough to alter the bead. Rolling thicker steel will probably require that. You can check on the HAMB website for ideas on mounting and strengthening the HF roller. Just search on "bead roller."
     
  5. alex211

    alex211 Member

    I got some steel today and went right to work on the bead roller. I built the stand out of .120x3x3 square tubing, it's way overkill but it works nice now. There is no flex at all anymore.

    [​IMG]

    Then on the back I used some re-bar that was laying around to hold the dies. All I need to do now is paint it and it will be done.

    [​IMG]

    Tomorrow I'm going to start working with the brake, it's easy since all I have to do is weld the piano hinge to two pieces of angle iron. Then I need to build a work bench for the back wall for the brake to sit on.
     
  6. alex211

    alex211 Member

    The start of the brake.

    [​IMG]

    Threw some paint on the bead roller.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. alex211

    alex211 Member

    Messed around with the tailgate a little. I used a piece of 1/2 schedule 40 pipe for the bottom, all I need now is to cut out a piece of sheet metal and weld it in. Just waiting for my shear to come in from HF.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. alex211

    alex211 Member

    Just need to finish welding it in, got it in there without any warpage. The beads aren't perfect but I'm still learning and they are better than nothing.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Thompology

    Thompology Member

    Updates?
     
  10. Mike S

    Mike S Sponsor

    What he said.
     
  11. alex211

    alex211 Member

    I haven't done hardly anything over summer. Been working my *** off and got a Hobart 187 mig, in a week or two I'm gonna order a Hypertherm powermax 45 and get an 80cf bottle of gas for the welder.

    I'm not gonna run the 4.3 anymore, I got a job working at a junkyard and the owner is really cool. I'm going to get a TBI 5.7 off him cheap and rebuild it, 210hp is a nice improvement from 160hp from the 4.3. There are a ton of axles to choose frome so I'm going to try to get a Dana 70HD and a 44 out of chevy trucks, or a 14B/44 combo.

    I'm planning on having a frame sitting on axles this fall, my buddy is going to give me a set of stock YJ springs for it to sit on too. There is a CJ5 with an Orville steel top, he said I can have the complete top for $50. I'm going to use the side/corner sections on mine since mine is missing a window and it has good windows, then cut a 20 inch section out of the roof to splice into mine. Then I will have a steel top fit for a CJ6.

    I found a steering box in a old J10, its a 4 bolt power saginaw box. Does it have the good ratio? I'll probably get the box for next to nothing so it will go on the jeep anyhow.

    Here is the welder, I'm going to get some 2x2 square tube to build a lower frame for it so the welder can sit on the lower shelf and the plasma on top. It will come out nice.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Kman

    Kman Member

     
  13. cerial

    cerial Banned

    Bout 4 years ago a buddy had a tj. He was slapping on 1/8" "body armor. Dropped like 2k on a kit that covered most of the tub.

    It raised the question of why not just build a dang tub out of 1/8 steel. Of course you would have to use your body panels as a reference(basically cut it from flat stock and gusset everything) but as far as trail protection and rust resistance unsurpassed.

    Would be heavy and that means beefing up the frame and larger axles for the added weight and would not be road legal by any means.

    Just seems if your going to go to all this work might as well consider using a heavier gauge or 1/8" aluminum so you don't need to repairing it in another some odd years.

    Just my .02
     
  14. alex211

    alex211 Member

    I haven't got much done on the jeep lately. I have been trying to aquire the tools and parts to build some stuff this winter. I did buy a Hypertherm powermax 45 plasma cutter, it works really nice.

    I'm saving up for a Grizzly band saw for the next tool purchase, I need something to cut the rectangle tubing for frame rails. I sold the 4.3 and decided to go with a SBC. I found some axles I will try to get tomorrow, they are a 14B and a Dana 44 out of a suburban. They have factory 4:56 gears. :)

    I was plannign on using some Summit stainless block hugger headers, do those work well in the cramped engine compartment of a jeep? Also if I use a short water pump can I run a alternator, PS pump, and a York compressor? thanks for all the help, this forum is one of the best.

    My welding cart.

    [​IMG]

    The bandsaw I'm thinking about buying, you guys have any input on it's quality?

    http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-1-2-x-9-1-2-Metal-Cutting-Bandsaw/G4030
     
  15. PieLut

    PieLut Member

    I haven't used the grizzly saw, but my friend has a similar model made by JET and it works very well. The JET is very similar. His only complaint is that when used in the horizontal mode, the unit sits low to the ground and you are hunched over while operating the machine. He uses the machine for his small fab business, so that may not be a big deal for you. I've always wanted a horizontal band saw, but they occupy a decent amount of space in a small shop. I've become accustom to using my Makita chop saw for most of my cuts. Of course if you have room to spare, that saw will give you very clean and accurate cuts. Great choice on the plasma cutter.
     
  16. duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Yep, but it takes some work to build the York mounts. The GM stage II ps pumps with a bracket off the left front "motor mount" works well. With a short water pump, the York will extend a bit behind the front of the heads. Here is how mine went together (the filter is actually part of the ps system).

    [​IMG]
     
  17. alex211

    alex211 Member

    Thanks for the input. I have the space for the saw too, I really like how you can stand it up for use as a vertical bandsaw too. I have a chop saw saw but it cuts as straight as a $3 bill, it's one of those cheap ones with a stamped steel base. Plus I don't like all the noise and mess that a chop saw makes.
     
  18. alex211

    alex211 Member

    That looks like 20 pounds in a 1 pound bag. R)

    You do some really nice work with all the polished brackets and AN plumbing. Did GM ever make any factory brackets for PS with the short pump? thanks
     
  19. duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Can't answer that (all my vehicles are too old), the ps bracket shown was another Speedway item.
     
  20. alex211

    alex211 Member

    Today I got a 14bolt and a 44 with 4:56s and a 4 bolt 350.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Broke a stud getting the factory steering arm off the knuckle.

    [​IMG]