The Typhoon Build (Hopped Up F-Head)

OK ran into a snag.

I opened THE BOX, as I call it, where I put pretty much everything for my engine in well over 8 months ago when I took it apart. I labeled and tagged everything, but (don't you hate buts?) somehow I scratched the bearings?! not badly, you can see it, and BARELY feel it. Hope I don't automatically need new bearings! I am taking it to a friend tomorrow to inspect (retired machinist).

Also, looking at my exhaust valves. Lots of carbon (funny I forgot about them) I don't want to wire wheel them so I am going to my friends shop later this week and glass beading them and re surfacing, and lapping them. Might run a shrinker through the valve guides to remove some play. How much play is too much. I might have .0075 play? hard to tell, but you and easily see and feel them wiggle.

also missing some valve keepers. I will look in my junk boxes for some I remember cleaning some awhile back.

 

You mean knurling tool. I doubt there is supposed to be more .002" clearance on the valves shaft, most motors are around .0015"

 

yeah thats the tool, forgot the name. I am going to take my chances. it dosn't seem like enough to matter. After looking at it when I was awake (and a little more sober) it might be closer to .0020 or maybe less. I don't do it for a living so I don't have the "feel" perfect.

I went to the retired machinist with my berings today...good news, I should't worry about it I have a bur or two, but he said 2000 grit sand paper and VERY slight scuffing will remove them.

 

engines only got 8,000 miles on it. I think rust corroded the valves. I will knurl them tomorrow.

I did the head already, got a good fit their, and got a 3 angle valve job for free!

 

Found out I got worn out valve stems, not guides. $5 a piece for new ones is just fine with me. The guy said that new ones would bring the tolerances back to normal. Stems were worn .013....A LOT. Then I look back at the build sheet (from the 80s), valves were just re ground, nothing else was done to them, explains that mess.

New valves and hardened exhaust seats? he said I need to re seat the new valves? I thought just lapping then would do the trick, the hard seat doesn't wear right?

 

Murphys law: What ever can go wrong, will go wrong.

how true

I dropped a rod bearing and it hit some differential gears I had on the floor, and the other one I was holding bounced under my work bench (its scary under there)

but got the crank in and cam in (forgot order of things and forgot about the front plate dumba** me)

PICS>

first one is the dropped bearing, second one is the bearing that hid under the table, and the third one is the other two good ones...the rest are just for show.







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I use Indian head on the freeze plugs, first time I ever used it...works nice.

 

I got no where to put it. all my storage areas are cramped already, and the junk can't sit outside.

Notice the box of Carb cleaner. thats clean enough

 

yes, with 8,000 miles on them.

 

Why? You can tell from the photo that they have wear on them. If your trying to build something for power why put used bearings in it.

 

$$$ issue I planed $500 give or take $100. Relax, I can replace the bearings later if i have to, not like I haven't done it before on the creeper under a rig. Yes they have wear, yes, it was 8,000 HARD miles, but the bronze isn't even close to showing. They still got plenty of life left.

 

up, and it is well within clearance tolerances..its just the stupid nicked rod bearing holding me back now..

 

Bearings have nothing to do with horsepower....

 

Sure they do. Crappy clearance will eat up hp and oil pressure and drag other things down along the way.

 

I splurged. 4 new sets of rod bearings, and 4 new exhaust valves. $~100. Walck's was $2 cheaper than I could get them at work. $10 cheaper on the exhaust valves.

Lap the valves in, and squeeze in the rods and pistons and finish all the other crap it takes to get a long block together and then I will have to let it sit for a month or so so I can work on selling some of my junk.

Also to start Grade 8 (1963 CJ-3B)

ordered Tuesday, stuff usually take a day and a half to get here, Friday is my next free evening, I will report then.

Till then, I'll be keeping my nose out of the 50/50 mix of STP oil additive and 30w.