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Dana 18 rear output flange.

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Corveeper, Oct 30, 2008.

  1. Corveeper

    Corveeper Member

    The nuts / bolts that hold the drive shaft to the companion flange keep shaking loose and it’s getting on my nerves.
    Anyone ever put studs in the flange? If so, where did you get them?
    If not, do you guys have similar problems with the nuts / bolts shaking loose?
     
  2. EricM

    EricM Active Member

    How do your lock washers look? are they compressed?
     
  3. AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

    Yes, I've had them come loose. Just used some lock washers or nylocs and haven't had a problem since.

    It is definately worth checking them once in awhile.
     
  4. Patrick

    Patrick Super Moderator Staff Member

    Split lock washers work for me, elastic stops would work too...
     
  5. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    X2 on the new split washers, and nylocks too. I don't think studs would work because the bolt heads hold the e-brake drum in place IIRC.
     
  6. Homebrew2

    Homebrew2 Member

    10-4 on the ebrake thing. I use blue locktite in addition to the lock washers. On mine there wasn't enough reveal on the bolts to use nylocks.
    Also note, I have found, that some modern bolts heads are slightly smaller than OEM and bind when snugging up before they go flush, due to being cocked, for a real torque and may loosen up later.
     
  7. Brian P

    Brian P Member

    Just a thought..........The flange bolts you are speaking of ( on my 55 ) are 3/8 *24tpi ( fine thread ) Grade 8 with a shoulder just shy of 7/8 inch in length, This shoulder is long enough to go through the parking brake drum, drive yoke flange and U-joint flange..................Is it possible that the bolts have been replaced with ones that have to short a shoulder allowing the drive flange to rotate back and forth under the lock washer and nut?

    Again just a thought........to short of shoulder + coarse thread + to soft grade of bolt could = PITA. Grade 5 may be ok but mine are grade 8 ( six lines on bolt head )
     
  8. one match

    one match New Member

    I agree with all of this mine used to come loose until I installed new lock washers and I used steel self locking nuts.

    One Match
     
  9. Corveeper

    Corveeper Member

    Grade 8 fine thread bolts with cinch nuts, kind of like nylocks but they don’t use a nylon insert, and split washer, no drum brake but I’d like to install one some day.
    Part of my problem, IMO, is a loping motor that surges at low RPM’s.
    Since everyone else seems to be getting along fine with nylocks I may just switch to those and get some star “shake proof” washers installing with a little blue lock tight.
    Thanks guys.
     
  10. timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Sounds like a job for ... Fastenal! Buy new pinch (or clinch) nuts, and keep some spares.

    The pinch nuts, like the nylocks, aren't supposed to be reused. I think the nylocks are a little more forgiving about reuse. If you really have a problem with loosening, use safety wire.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2008
  11. w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    I don't think I'd want to use star washers on those nuts They aren't designed for high-torque applications, more for making good, solid electrical connections and the like. Fine thread bolts and either pinch nuts or nylocks with a split washer are the way to go.
     
  12. Corveeper

    Corveeper Member

    Fastenal rocks.
    Safety wire. Now there’s an idea I hadn’t considered.
    I’m going to try other options first but I might actually go that route if all else fails.