1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Jeepster front driveshaft

Discussion in 'Jeepster Commando and Commando Tech' started by ca51flatty, Jun 10, 2008.

  1. ca51flatty

    ca51flatty I wheeled w Charlie Hazel

    Can anyone tell me if the standard front driveshaft in a Jeepster with the TH400 / 225 combo, the one with the pillow block bearing is rebuildable? Specically, is the bearing replacable and if so how does it come apart.
     
  2. 1970CJ6

    1970CJ6 new mexico air

    The bearing is replaceable, the drive shaft has to be cut apart at the weld and the rewelded. This would have to be done by a drive line shop. We have some here in Albuquerque that does it. I can give you the phone # if needed.

    Andrew
     
  3. ca51flatty

    ca51flatty I wheeled w Charlie Hazel

    Would they have the bearing? Or is it something that I can find locally?

    It wasn't very user friendly or maintenance minded of Jeep with this set up was it!
     
  4. Pack Rat

    Pack Rat Old Timer

    Ain't that the truth, you should see the standard tranny version :shock:.
     
  5. mojerry

    mojerry New Member

    Has anyone ever tried to replace this shaft with a straight one piece shaft?
     
  6. trickpatrick

    trickpatrick Done? LOL

    I have the manule trans and a single piece shaft.

    I am sure someone will want to correct me but.
    the auto pan being a bit in the way seems to be why they did this 2 piece shaft.

    Some will say they have a manule with 2 piece but still it would seem this is the thought on why they did this.


    That said you can use a 1 piece shaft but it may need to be smaller in dia. to clear everything.

    Personaly I would get rid of the 2 piece shaft.
     
  7. Pack Rat

    Pack Rat Old Timer

    The reason for the two piece is because of the crossover pipe for the exhaust. Standard tranny, from the factory, were two piece also for the same reason. 4 cylinder are the only ones with a factory one piece. If it were true about the oil pan then 72/73 Commando's would have a two piece. I've done a couple of one piece but that was after changing the front diff to a D30 and dual exhaust. Used a cut down front shaft from a Bullnose, you'd also need to change the front output flange on the transfer case. Might have to go a different route with a D27, don't know if theres a yoke for the larger U-joint that will fit.
     
  8. Hurstjeepster

    Hurstjeepster New Member

    Yes on what Packrat says and those carrier bearings are getter rare. I had a good driveline shop convert my '71 V-6 Auto front shaft to a one piece shaft using a different yoke setup with a more common joint. When the two piece breaks it will really flail around and break a transmission case as the previous owner of my Jeep found out.
     
  9. william_cj3b

    william_cj3b 3BOB driver

    The bearing for the driveshaft you need is a standard sealed ball bearing. If the driveline shop can't source the bearing for you, have them press it off so you can take it to an industrial supply like Motion Industries. They can measure it and give you the right part. The rubber isolator for the bearing is harder. I used a coil spring isolator from a Ford car. I just carved the inside out until I could just barely shove the bearing in.
     
  10. ca51flatty

    ca51flatty I wheeled w Charlie Hazel

    That was my next step, cut the one I have apart and take it from there. I actually have two choices here, one, leave the one piece that I had made and reduce the bump travel. That is going to hurt articluation for sure. Two, would be to cut apart the standard Jeepster shaft I have an build my own but in the same principle as the standard one. I'm waffling right now on which direction to go. I think a two piece done right would be awesome in my application for ultimate travel. The one piece should be sufficient but if I ever do toss a u-joint my tranny pan or case could be toast.

    So let me get your opinions here. Do the extra fab work and build a two piece or leave the one piece and build new bumps stops and hop I never toss a u-joint. Anything elase I'm missing?