5.38 Gears

The speedometer will change fast or slow by the ratio of the change of tire height. If the stock tire height were 27", then (27"/31" - 1) * 100% = -13%. Your actual speed at an indicated 35 would be 35 mph * 31"/27" = 40 mph. Significant, but doesn't explain the difference between 35 and 60.

 

I don’t think it’s a speedometer issue. I have clocked myself using one of those police signs that tells your speed and it was mid 30’s maxed out; this in addition to ALWAYS being passed by every car on the road. I originally thought it was a gearing issue due to the fact that my T-90 3 speed is more like a two speed. First is so low that I usually only use second and third while on the street. I can tell a noticeable difference when it is in 4-low, so that led me to believe it was not stuck in low gear all the time………what to do what to do

 

Taking off in 2nd with a T-90 :hurrican: combo somethings wrong with that picture.

 

Is their an easy way to see if it is stuck in low gear with out pulling the transfer case?

 

Isn't there a 5.89 gear out there. Could he have that gear maybe?

 

You can see about every thing a dana 18 is made of by droping the covers.

 

Mmm, it's out there for 60s and 70s; not sure about the 44 - doubtful. Never seen it in a CJ, only in the M715. As the ratio gets numerically higher, the size of the case that will fit in the carrier becomes the limit. Either that or the number of teeth on the pinion gets too small, and the gears are too weak becasue of the reduced contact.

Check the Randy's R&P site - they have a good list of what's available.

 

That might be what I am thinking of. But even at 5.89 I don't think that would limit you to 30mph.

 

Yup you can get 5.89s for a D44. Doubt you can get them for a D27 though.

 

Does neutral work in your transfer case? if so then, when you go into high or low range, it has to be in the proper range. If not, then maybe you are just missing a set screw inside.

OK, I will be the one to say it. Push the left lever foward, pull the right lever all the way to the rear. If that fixes it, then uuugh ....blame it in the carbeurator!

 

it has to be in low range
30-35 would be about max

 

Yeah, I think the technical ratio is 2.46:1.

 

Sounds like you are planning on keeping F-head.the o-drive might be a option.the 5:38's are real good for crawling around with the 4 banger.if i were to consider changing gears i would be thinking 4:88 ,4:56 ,or 4:27's. good luck

mike s.

 

If it has been stuck in 4lo for a while the shifters can be kinda stiff.
Stick it in 1st, gentley rock it forward, and at the same time pull the right hand knob to the rear. That one has three positions - Forward is lo, middle is nuetral, rearward is hi.
this lever needs to be in the middle or rear position to move the left lever from the rear position to the forward position.
The left lever is 4 wheel drive in the rear position, 2 wheel drive in the forward position.
This is assuming someone did not take out the little fitting that makes it possible to drive in 2 lo.
If need be get a friend to help.He can tug on the right lever while you pay attention to brakes and clutch and surroundings. Good luck, and let us know how it comes out.

 

seeing as you only have around 100 miles on the engine,maybe the valves are adjusted to tight.around 30 years ago i did a valve job on a 50 chev pick-up.i adjusted the valves to tight,it had very little power and not much of a top speed.adjusted them right the next day and it was back to normal.just something to check if all the easier stuff to check does not work.

 

Is it possible that Weber is too much carb for that little motor?