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Brake line order

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by grannyscj, Mar 8, 2006.

  1. grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    After I get the frame blasted (yeah after the weekends progress or lack of it there will be no more wire wheeling), I'm changing out the brake lines and I am making up the order. I am staying w/ the dual res MC I have but plan on upgrading the fronts to disc at some point. Any suggestions for parts? I plan on buying a proportioning valve but anything else that you all have found a need for would be appreciated. Also do I need a special flare tool or will a standard one do the job?:v6:
     
  2. Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Double flare tool, and a good bender are the minimum. I have a piece of flex steel (almost like a spring) that I put in lines to help hold their shape if I need to make sharp turns.

    I have also found it nice to put a couple coil loops in the lines at stratigic places incase I get flex - keeps from breaking new hard lines cause I didn't get enough flex in the system.
     
  3. mikieboy

    mikieboy Member

  4. jhuey

    jhuey Michigan Jeeper!

    What's the best tubing cutter for steel line? I used my tubing cutter for plumbing and the cutting disc got all chipped up and it's toast now. It is a small one for tight spots from Ace. Being small it is great for layout cutting.
     
  5. 68 CJ

    68 CJ Banned

    It is not recommended to cut brake line with a tubing cutter. Use a saw, chamfer the tube then flare and blow it out before installing it. I used a dremel and a cut off wheel.
     
  6. jhuey

    jhuey Michigan Jeeper!

    Why would it and who would not recommend using a tubing cutter to cut tubing? Here is a referance using a tubing cutter, http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/ . I do understand what the problems using a tubing cutter (closing down area cut) and if you ream out end and debur the problem is addressed.
     
  7. russo

    russo Hope is not a method

    I used a tubing cutter just to make sure I got a straight cut. Keep replacement wheels around.

    Just finished a full brake replacement. Made all the lines except the Z lines - bought those from Krage for pennies (well maybe dimes).

    Turned out to be easier than I thought.
     
  8. tommy b

    tommy b Member

    Here's something to watch out for when buying a double flaring kit. Personal experience. I'm not endorsing the OTC kit, just saying compare different kits before you plunk down your cash. This is a quote from an earlier post I made a while ago.

    "Finally got the front brakes converted to 11". Worked the last three days trying to figure out why the double flares on the hard lines weren't coming out right. After screwing up (breaking) several buttons used to make the double flares, I finally saw that the clamp part of the tool wasn't sitting square on the bar that holds the tubing. It was an old, US made clamp I had, too. Wasn't machined properly to begin with. No wonder I'd been having problems flaring gas lines in the past. Went to Tool King and checked three of their kits for alignment before I found one that was square. FWIW, it was a kit made by OTC tools, and is made in Korea. The two Cal Van (made in USA) kits I checked were P'sOC."

    tommy b
     
  9. schardein

    schardein Low Range Therapy

    I've always used a tubing cutter and mine is a small one that has held up well over the years, don't remember where/when I got it or how much it was but doesn't look like anything special. I also have a reamer that I then clean out the hole with, then double flare it, I always leave enough line that if I screw it up, I have enough to cut off and do again. When both ends are done I shoot brake cleaner through it followed by compressed air.
     
  10. Mark Mann

    Mark Mann Kermit

    Although I agree that there should be no problems with using a tubing cutter, I imagine the concern involves "pinching" and possible restriction which can occur when we get in a hurry and try to tighten the wheel too much per revolution. IMO, if one doesn't get too excited with the cutter and only tightens the cutting wheel down in small increments, there shouldn't be any trouble.

    MM :flag:
     
  11. schardein

    schardein Low Range Therapy

    I'll agree that you need to ream the hole after cutting....but I ream the hole even after using a cutoff wheel...it helps in producing a quality double flare.
     
  12. grannyscj

    grannyscj Headed to the Yukon

    Thanks for all the advice. Now I'll return some. I made a little cut off device for my dremel a few years ago out of a post hinge. Drilled a hole in the vertical part of the hinge to fit the dremel (where the collar comes off) and added a piece of 3/8 angle for a guide and get square fast no pinch cuts all the time. Did it because I hated the way soft copper pinched every time I used a roller cutter on it. I can probably draw it up if any body wants to see it. I can't give you a picture right now cause my dad is using it (200 mi. up the road in B'ville).:v6:
     
  13. schardein

    schardein Low Range Therapy

    I'd be interested in seeing that.